How to get rid of closed comedones?

Often referred to as microcysts, closed comedones are skin imperfections commonly found in oily skin types, which produce a significant amount of sebum. An accumulation of dead cells on the skin's surface can also be a contributing factor, leading to the formation of a plug. Unlike blackheads, the sebum contained in a closed comedone is not in contact with the oxygen in the air: this is why it does not oxidise and remains white. Indeed, closed comedones are covered by a thin layer of skin that traps the sebum. Whiteheads are primarily found on the face, back, chest, and shoulders, areas rich in sebaceous glands.

It is advisable not to delay in addressing a closed comedone as this sebum-rich environment promotes the proliferation of the bacterium Cutibacterium acnes, which can lead to inflammation. Whiteheads then run the risk of turning into papules and pustules.

Advice No. 1: Do not, under any circumstances, manipulate a closed comedone.

Even though it may be tempting, it is crucial to resist touching a whitehead. Indeed, our hands carry numerous bacteria that can infiltrate the blocked hair follicle and create inflammation. This can turn a simple whitehead into a local infection, leading to the formation of pustules. Moreover, attempting to burst the spot can cause a rupture of the hair follicle wall, thereby releasing sebum into the surrounding tissues, which can trigger the appearance of other comedones. Finally, manipulating a closed comedone can damage the skin and increase the risk of scarring.

Tip : To avoid touching your whiteheads, you can use an anti-spot patch. In addition to helping conceal the spot, it also protects it from friction, thus promoting its disappearance without leaving scars.

Advice No. 2: Establish a consistent and suitable skincare routine.

A consistent skincare routine tailored to one's skin issues can help reduce closed comedones, starting with a cleansing routine. This initial step helps to remove impurities and excess sebum build-up. However, care should be taken not to use a cleanser that is too harsh, so as not to disrupt the skin barrier. Indeed, some studies have shown that a disruption of the skin's barrier function can promote the appearance of spots. That's why it's important not to underestimate the significance of skin hydration, regardless of your skin type.

The incorporation of exfoliating actives, such as AHA or BHA, can also aid in unclogging pores and thus in eliminating closed comedones. AHAs, such as glycolic acid, work on the skin's surface to detach dead cells from the horny layer, while BHAs, like salicylic acid, penetrate deeper into the pores to remove accumulated sebum. If you have sensitive skin, it is also possible to use PHAs, such as gluconolactone, which offer gentle exfoliation. Finally, it may be beneficial to use comedolytic actives, such as benzoyl peroxide, locally.

Advice No. 3: Do not hesitate to consult a dermatologist.

If your closed comedones persist, multiply or worsen, it's time to seek advice from a dermatologist. They can offer you more potent treatments depending on your acne and the risks of progression and scarring it entails. Antibiotics, either orally or topically, are often prescribed as a first line of treatment. Topical retinoids, such as adapalene or tretinoin, or oral ones like isotretinoin, are also common treatment options and are recognised for their keratolytic, anti-inflammatory and sebostatic virtues.

Some dermatologists also offer a skin cleansing procedure that gradually eliminates closed comedones. However, to maintain the results achieved, it is necessary to undergo this procedure every six months. Some dermatologists also suggest performing a skin cleanse before starting an acne treatment. By preventing microcysts from turning into inflammatory lesions, this can reduce the duration of the treatment.