Hand creams: our tips for choosing the right one.

Hand cream, an essential product in a skincare routine.

The hands are among the most exposed areas of the body and are constantly in use in everyday life. Frequent washing, the use of alcohol-based hand rubs, contact with detergents, and climatic variations (cold, wind, sun) progressively weaken the skin barrier. Moreover, the skin of the hands is relatively thin and poor in sebaceous glands, which makes it vulnerable to dehydration. Alteration of its hydrolipidic film, the aqueous-lipid mantle that covers it, may result in tightness, a feeling of discomfort, or even the appearance of cracks or irritation.

Furthermore, the hands are often one of the first areas to reveal the signs of skin ageing. The progressive reduction of lipids, collagen and elastin, combined with repeated exposure to UV radiation, can promote the development of pigmentation spots, a loss of firmness, and a more pronounced appearance of the veins and tendons. It should be recalled that exposure to the sun is one of the main factors responsible for the appearance of signs of ageing, both on the face and on the hands.

Including a hand cream in one’s skincare routine helps to support the barrier function and hydration of the skin, thereby contributing to the maintenance of its comfort and appearance.

The benefits of a hand cream were demonstrated in a study conducted with 25 volunteers subjected to repeated handwashing (four times a day for two weeks with a neutral soap). Without application of cream, skin roughness gradually increased, with the index rising from 100 to 108.5 by day 9, while hydration decreased from 79 to 65.5 after 14 days. In contrast, when participants applied a cream after each wash, roughness decreased (to 94.5 from day 2 and 94.8 on day 14) and hydration stabilised at around 75.6 after a slight initial drop. The cream used contained, in particular, glycerine, oils acting as occlusive agents, as well as emollients such as glyceryl oleate, illustrating the value of a formulation that combines several types of active ingredients.

These results show that the systematic application of a cream after washing makes it possible to significantly limit the dryness and roughness induced by repeated irritation.

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What criteria should be taken into account when choosing a hand cream?

Choosing a hand cream is not just a matter of texture or fragrance. A good formulation must first and foremost support the skin barrier, maintain an adequate level of hydration, and protect the skin from everyday aggressions. To achieve this, several criteria can guide the choice, depending on the specific needs of the skin on the hands and its condition at the time of application.

Prioritise a combination of complementary moisturising ingredients.
An effective moisturising cream generally relies on three types of active ingredients: humectants, such as glycerine or urea, which attract water into the stratum corneum; emollients, such as ceramides or certain fatty acids, which soften the skin and restore its lipid organisation; and occlusive agents, also called film-forming agents, such as plant oils, which reduce transepidermal water loss. This combination makes it possible to act both on the supply and the retention of moisture.
Choose a formulation that respects the skin’s pH.
The skin has a slightly acidic pH, generally between 4.5 and 5.5, which is essential for the proper functioning of the enzymes involved in lipid synthesis and for maintaining the skin microbiota. A hand cream formulated within this pH range helps preserve the integrity of the skin barrier and limit imbalances.
Limit potentially irritating ingredients.
Since the hands are often fragile, it may be preferable to avoid formulations containing fragrances or certain preservatives with sensitising potential. As with essential oils, fragrances may in fact contain allergens such as linalool, limonene or citral, which can trigger reactions in sensitive skin, particularly when they are oxidised.
Certain preservatives may also be involved, such as isothiazolinones, for example methylisothiazolinone or methylchloroisothiazolinone, which are known for their sensitising potential, as well as certain formaldehyde-releasing agents. We therefore recommend that you opt for simple hand creams, formulated with few ingredients and free from fragrance and essential oils, particularly if you have sensitive or atopic-prone skin or are susceptible to eczema.
Adapting the texture and richness of the cream to individual needs.
Slightly dry skin may be adequately cared for with a light texture that is rapidly absorbed, such as a lotion or fluid cream, generally rich in humectants like glycerine or hyaluronic acid, which attract and retain water in the stratum corneum without leaving an overly occlusive film. Conversely, very dry, damaged or fissure-prone skin requires richer formulations, containing higher levels of lipids capable of restoring the skin barrier, such as ceramides and plant butters, for example shea butter and mango butter.
The balm-like or rich cream textures are therefore particularly suitable, as they combine lipid-replenishing agents with occlusive compounds that form a protective film, reducing water loss. This type of formulation is especially beneficial during the winter months, when falling temperatures and icy winds increase dehydration and further weaken the skin of the hands.
Apply the cream at the appropriate time and on a regular basis.
The effectiveness of a hand cream also depends on how frequently it is used. It is recommended to apply it after every handwashing, when the skin is more vulnerable to dehydration. Applying a thicker layer in the evening can also promote better repair of the skin barrier overnight.
Choosing a hand cream suited to your needs.
When the skin on the hands is particularly weakened — very dry, sensitive, or prone to conditions such as eczema — it is preferable to opt for formulations specifically designed to restore the skin barrier. These creams generally contain a high proportion of re-lipidising agents, as well as soothing active ingredients such as panthenol or allantoin, which help to reduce inflammation and improve skin comfort.
In certain specific situations, such as contact allergies, particularly to metals (nickel, chromium), so‑called “barrier” creams can also be useful. These formulations aim to limit direct contact between the skin and allergens by forming a protective film on the surface of the epidermis. Although they do not replace avoidance measures, they can provide an interesting additional measure for people who are regularly exposed to these substances (jewellery, tools, occupational environment). In all cases, if persistent symptoms are present, such as redness, itching or even skin fissures, we recommend seeking the advice of a healthcare professional in order to select the most appropriate hand cream.