Wrinkles and wrinkled hands: what solutions are available?

The hands are particularly exposed to external stressors and are among the first areas to reveal the signs of skin ageing. Unlike other parts of the body, the skin on the hands is thin and relatively poor in sebaceous glands, which makes it more vulnerable to dehydration. Over time, the skin’s ability to retain water in the stratum corneum decreases. It is therefore not uncommon to see the appearance of wrinkled hands, sometimes described as crepey hands. This situation can be exacerbated by frequent washing, exposure to cold or the use of harsh products, which gradually impair the skin barrier.

Beyond dehydration, the ageing of the hands is also explained by deeper structural changes. The production of collagen and elastin decreases with age, leading to a loss of firmness and elasticity. At the same time, the subcutaneous fatty tissue becomes depleted, making the veins and tendons more visible. In addition, wrinkles on the hands become more pronounced, and the skin may appear thinner and laxer, sometimes associated with a dry, wrinkled appearance. Finally, chronic exposure to UV rays plays a major role in this process. Sun exposure promotes the breakdown of the dermal extracellular matrix and accelerates the onset of wrinkles and pigment spots. This process, known as photoageing, contributes significantly to the appearance of wrinkled hands.

Cosmetic treatments can help to improve the appearance of wrinkled hands, reduce visible signs of skin laxity and fade certain pigment spots. However, they are not intended to radically transform the skin: their role is to act gradually, by supporting the skin’s natural mechanisms and limiting aggravating factors. An appropriate routine can nonetheless make a real difference to crepey hands, improving their texture, hydration and the evenness of their pigmentation.

Hand creams form the foundation of this care approach. They generally combine several types of complementary active ingredients: humectants, such as glycerine or hyaluronic acid, which attract water into the stratum corneum; emollients, such as ceramides, which restore the lipid organisation and soften the skin; as well as film‑forming agents, which limit water loss. Certain targeted active ingredients can be incorporated to act more specifically on hand wrinkles, such as retinoids, which stimulate cell turnover and collagen synthesis, vitamin C, which has an antioxidant effect and helps even out skin tone, while agents such as arbutin acid or liquorice extract can help to even out the skin.

Exfoliation is another valuable approach to smoothing the skin and improving its texture. Exfoliating acids, particularly AHAs such as glycolic acid or lactic acid, promote cell turnover by removing dead cells that have accumulated on the skin’s surface. This process refines the skin’s texture and visibly smooths wrinkles. In addition, the daily use of sun protection on the hands remains essential: as UV radiation is one of the main factors in skin ageing, limiting its impact helps to prevent the onset and worsening of wrinkles and pigment spots.

A clinical study has also evaluated the effectiveness of a cream specifically formulated for hands showing signs of photoageing. Twenty-nine participants with hands marked by spots, uneven texture and wrinkles applied this treatment for four months. The formula contained in particular retinoids, arbutin, azelaic acid, liquorice extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate, a stabilised derivative of vitamin C, glycerine and plant oils. The results showed a statistically significant improvement in all assessed parameters — texture, wrinkles, pigmentation and elasticity — from the first month of use, with no reported adverse effects, as confirmed both by dermatologists and by the participants.

Although this study remains limited in size, it illustrates the potential of well-formulated cosmetic care to visibly improve the appearance of the hands.

When wrinkled hands are marked, with a loss of volume, skin laxity or visible pigment spots, cosmetic treatments may reach their limits. In such cases, certain aesthetic medicine techniques can be considered to improve their appearance more significantly. These approaches aim to restore volume, stimulate collagen, and improve the texture and pigmentation of the skin.

• Hyaluronic acid injections.

  The hyaluronic acid injections are one of the most widely used techniques for treating aged hands. They consist of injecting a hydrating, volumising gel into the backs of the hands to compensate for the loss of subcutaneous tissue. This procedure helps to restore volume, smooth out hand wrinkles and make veins and tendons less visible. A study conducted on 20 patients showed a significant increase in tissue thickness for up to 6 months after injection. Skin roughness also decreased markedly and skin hydration improved. Patients reported smoother, more supple and younger-looking skin after just a single session. The main advantage of this technique is its immediate and natural effect, although it remains temporary (generally 6 to 12 months) and requires maintenance.

• The laser.

  Laser treatments primarily target the signs of photoageing, in particular pigment spots and textural irregularities. Depending on the type of laser used, the light energy can stimulate collagen production or fragment the pigments responsible for the discolorations. A study conducted on 21 patients treated with a 675 nm laser showed encouraging results: after two to three sessions, 71% of participants demonstrated an improvement rated as excellent and 29% a good improvement in the texture and pigmentation of the hands. No adverse effects were reported. The laser therefore offers an attractive option for improving the appearance of the hands, but requires multiple sessions and may cause temporary sensitivity.

• Chemical peeling.

  Chemical peeling involves applying acids, such as AHAs or trichloroacetic acid (TCA), at high concentration in order to induce a controlled exfoliation of the skin. This process stimulates cell renewal, improves skin texture and reduces pigment spots. Peels are particularly suitable for smoothing the surface of crepey hands and restoring radiance. Their intensity can be adjusted according to individual needs, but they may cause temporary flaking and require strict sun protection after the treatment.

• Radiofrequency.

  Radiofrequency uses electromagnetic waves to heat the deeper layers of the skin, which stimulates collagen production and improves skin firmness. This technique is particularly useful in cases of skin laxity on the hands. It is non‑invasive, generally well tolerated, and does not require any social downtime. However, the results are gradual and often require several sessions before becoming visible.

• Lipofilling, or injection of autologous fat.

  Lipofilling consists of harvesting fat from another area of the body (abdomen, thighs), then reinjecting it into the hands in order to restore lost volume. This technique provides a natural result that is potentially more long‑lasting than hyaluronic acid injections. It improves both volume and skin quality thanks to the cells contained in the adipose tissue. However, it is a more invasive procedure, requiring a more extensive medical intervention and a recovery period.

The choice between these different techniques will depend on the stage of ageing of the hands and should be discussed with a professional in order to tailor the treatment to individual needs.

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• RODINA M. Y. & al. 12-month effects of stabilized hyaluronic acid gel compared with saline for rejuvenation of aging hands. Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (2015).

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• JONG SEO K. Changes in sonographic thickness with identification of nine layers, roughness, and hydration in the dorsal hand after injectables. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery (2023).