Healing, soothing, moisturising...: the virtues of allantoin.

Allantoin is often cited for promoting cellular regeneration due to its keratolytic action. It aids in softening the stratum corneum by facilitating the removal of dead cells. Indeed, allantoin eliminates corneocytes by loosening the intercellular cement or desmosomes (protein bridges) that maintain the adhesion of corneocytes amongst themselves. Its keratolytic properties promote cellular regeneration and leave the skin soft and radiant.

It has been mentioned in several studies that allantoin possesses moisturising properties and is often used in creams or lotions as a hydrating agent. However, its mode of action is not detailed in scientific literature. Its hydrating potential could be explained, as it is a water-soluble humectant ingredient that helps to increase the water content of cells by combating transepidermal water loss in the dermis. Thus, you can say goodbye to a dull complexion and your skin will regain its softness. Capable of soothing the discomfort associated with dry skin, allantoin is suitable for all skin types, even the most sensitive.

Allantoin is an active ingredient also used to combat skin ageing. Indeed, it has the ability to stimulate fibroblasts, the cells responsible for collagen production. In fact, as we age, collagen production decreases, which tends to promote the appearance of wrinkles. Although this property is mentioned in scientific literature, its mechanism of action on fibroblasts is not detailed and remains largely unknown.

One might assume that allantoin, being a large molecule (MW = 158.121 g/mol), would not be able to penetrate the epidermis and reach the dermis where fibroblasts are located to stimulate them directly. Allantoin would act indirectly on the stimulation of fibroblasts and could compensate for the decrease in collagen production observed with advancing age. Thus, it could potentially be an interesting active ingredient to combat the signs of skin ageing.

Scientific research has been conducted to determine whether allantoin possesses anti-inflammatory activity. In 2021, a study showed that a fraction of snail mucus containing allantoin had an inhibitory activity on the thermal denaturation of human serum albumin, an anti-inflammatory compound. However, the mode of action of allantoin in the inflammatory process is not yet understood, and further research needs to be conducted to substantiate these properties. Nevertheless, they may be beneficial in soothing skin inflammation caused by skin diseases such as eczema or psoriasis.