Which cream should be used in the case of cutaneous xerosis?

The term cutaneous xerosis is the scientific term for extreme skin dryness, caused by a disruption in the skin barrier. It manifests as a rough to the touch, dull and flaky skin, sometimes with micro-cracks or crevices in more severe cases. Xerosis can also lead to feelings of tightness, discomfort and itching, particularly after contact with water or in cold or dry environments. In some cases, the skin becomes thinner and is very vulnerable, which can promote the appearance of redness or irritation patches. In older people, xerosis can worsen and progress to deep cracks, particularly on the legs and hands.

In the event of skin xerosis, hydration and nourishment are key.

For this, it is essential to choose a suitable cream. To alleviate the symptoms of xerosis, it is generally recommended to opt for creams containing a combination of emollients, humectants, as well as lipid-replenishing molecules and compounds that promote cellular regeneration. Indeed, when dealing with xerosis, a cream must do more than simply provide hydration: it must restore the damaged lipid barrier. Physiological lipids, such as ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids, are essential for rebuilding the structure of the lipid bilayers of the stratum corneum. They easily integrate into the epidermis and work in synergy with the already present molecules to reduce insensible water loss and restore the skin barrier function.

In parallel, a cream suitable for skin prone to xerosis should include agents capable ofattracting and retaining water in the stratum corneum. The humectants, such as glycerol and urea, can fulfil this role and improve skin suppleness. They work due to their chemical structure, which includes hydroxyl -OH groups, aldehydes R-COH, ketones R-CO-R' or carboxyl -COOH, capable of forming hydrogen bonds with water molecules. It is the chemical structure of humectants that gives them their ability to capture moisture.

Furthermore, xerosis often comes with intense itching, leading to a vicious cycle of scratching and worsening of lesions. To soothe this sensation, certain active ingredients, such as glycine, can be incorporated into creams. This amino acid inhibits the release of histamine by mast cells, thus helping to reduce the inflammatory response associated with itching. In more severe cases of xerosis, dermocorticoids can be prescribed to reduce inflammation, but their prolonged use must be managed to avoid side effects, such as skin atrophy.

Furthermore, for a cream to be perfectly suited to xerosis (dry skin), it is beneficial if it promotes the regeneration of the epidermis. Active ingredients such as dexpanthenol can be beneficial as they stimulate the proliferation and migration of fibroblasts, thereby accelerating skin repair. Hydroxy acids, on the other hand, facilitate desquamation (skin peeling) and improve lipid synthesis, which helps to strengthen the skin barrier. The combination of these active ingredients allows for comprehensive management of xerosis, ranging from lipid restoration to the soothing of symptoms, for a more resilient and comfortable skin.

The ideal formulation for xerosis would contain physiological lipids, such as ceramides or cholesterol, a physiological humectant, such as glycerol, an anti-itch agent, like glycerol, and a compound that promotes epidermal differentiation, such as dexpanthenol.

Finally, it is important to consider the texture of the skincare product when choosing a cream to combat xerosis. The rich and enveloping textures, such as balms, are particularly suitable for very dry skin, as they form a protective film that limits water evaporation. At Typology, we offer a lipid-replenishing balm, designed for dry to very dry and atopic-prone skin. This high-tolerance treatment formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients provides continuous hydration for 24 hours, reduces feelings of discomfort and extends the periods between severe dryness. Our lipid-replenishing balm notably contains ceramides, shea butter and camelina oil, which help to restore the intercellular cement of the epidermis and the skin barrier, as well as an extract of Ophiopogon Japonicus roots, which have moisturising, anti-inflammatory and anti-pruritic properties.