When and how often should Centella Asiatica be used?

Also known as tiger grass, the medicinal properties of this plant have been recognised for over 2,000 years. For instance, Asian populations used it in poultices to heal wounds and, more specifically, the skin manifestations of leprosy.

In cosmetics, the use of this plant in the form of powder or vegetable oil is relatively recent, dating back to the early 1970s. The extract of Centella asiatica is a rich source of natural bioactive substances: saponins, triterpenoids, flavonoids, phenolic acids, triterpenic steroids, amino acids, sugars... Two molecules in particular have been isolated and give it excellent wound healing properties : namely madecassoside and asiaticoside.

Firstly, this plant is highly effective in combating the onset of ageing signs. Indeed, due to its biochemical composition, it stimulates the synthesis of collagen, a vital protein for skin firmness which decreases with age. It is also renowned for its antioxidant action, attributed to the phenolic compounds found in its leaves, roots and petioles. It thus significantly limits the production of oxygenated chemical species such as free radicals. As a reminder, these unstable and highly reactive molecules damage a wide range of the body's healthy molecules (DNA, RNA, proteins...), accelerating its ageing process.

The Centella asiatica is also recognised for its restorative properties. Studies have demonstrated its benefits in reducing stretch marks as well as skin blemishes such as acne scars, also known as post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation.

Finally, it stimulates microcirculation of blood which strengthens the walls of the blood vessels, preventing the appearance of varicose veins on the body and dark circles under the eyes.

In order to fade various skin marks and/or prevent the onset of wrinkles, different formulations contain extract of Centella asiatica and are now distributed in the cosmetic market. This plant-based active ingredient can thus be found in creams, lotions, tonics, aqueous serums or even night masks. It is also found in certain hair products to strengthen the hair and protect it from drying out.

Skincare with Centella asiatica can be safely used twice a day and this daily. This active ingredient is not photosensitising (it does not increase skin sensitivity with the UV rays of the sun), so you can apply your product morning and evening. However, do ensure to protect your skin every morning with a broad-spectrum sun protection.

Even though the Centella asiatica is an ingredient generally well tolerated by all skin types, it is still possible to develop an allergic reaction in the form of contact dermatitis. To avoid this, a preliminary application of the product in question on the inside of the elbow is advised. If redness appears, avoid using the skincare product.

Theanti-mark serum from Typology, based on PHA and Centella asiatica is used only in the evening as PHA is a photosensitising substance. Highly concentrated, it is applied locally, on the skin mark to be faded. This serum is suitable for all skin types and particularly for skin prone to marks/scars related to acne.

• BOREL J. P. & co. Stimulation of collagen synthesis in venous and dermal fibroblast cultures by titrated extract from Centella asiatica.Connective Tissue Research (1990).

• BELCARO G. & al. The microcirculatory activity of Centella asiatica in venous insufficiency: a double-blinded study. Minerva Cardioangiologica (1994).

• BRZEZINSKA M. & others. Centella asiatica in cosmetology. Advances in Dermatology and Allergology(2013).