What is a gentle peel?

In cosmetics, a gentle peel, also known as a superficial peel, is by definition a procedure that involves applying a cocktail of chemical substances to the skin to enhance its quality and appearance. It allows for deep cleansing of the skin and removal of all impurities. The terms "gentle" or "superficial" refer to the fact that the treatment used acts solely on the epidermis, without penetrating beyond the basal membrane. Present in small quantities (from 5 to 10%) and at a more or less acidic pH, this type of treatment can therefore be carried out at home in cream form, mask, lotion or serum to be used daily, thus recreating the effects of a chemical exfoliation but more gently. However, if the concentration exceeds 30%, it should then be performed by a doctor. A gentle peel is recommended for blackheads and other minor imperfections, enlarged pores, oily skin, irregular skin texture or a dull complexion.

In most cases, the formulas used are based on fruit acids, the A.H.A.s, such as glycolic acid or lactic acid. The A.H.A.s have properties capable of breaking the bond between the cells of the skin's horny layer. As a result, the gentle peel, acting only on the epidermis, causes a superficial, mild, limited and controlled desquamation of the horny layer. This technique thus allows to get rid of dead cells on the skin surface (corneocytes) that dull the complexion and to stimulate cell renewal. Thus, by creating a micro-exfoliation of the skin, it helps to reduce skin imperfections, to revive its radiance, to deeply unclog pores, to even out the complexion, to regulate sebum production, to smooth the skin surface and to reduce skin irregularities.

At Typology, we offer a range of products for gentle skin exfoliation, with a soft touch. Given their desquamating properties, these treatments are used on clean and dry skin, only in the evening to minimise any risk of photosensitisation:

• The exfoliating toner with 8% glycolic acid is to be used after each cleansing to, among other things, rebalance the skin's pH and eliminate lime scale residues. Simply soak a cotton pad with the solution and apply it all over the face.

• The peeling mask containing P.H.A.s (poly alpha-hydroxy acids), such as gluconolactone, is gentler than A.H.A.s and therefore particularly suitable for dry and reactive skin, as it is non-irritating. Indeed, this group of acids operates similarly to A.H.A.s but differs in their larger molecular size, which consequently limits their ability to penetrate the skin and thus induce sensitising side effects.

• The exfoliating serum based on 10% glycolic acid has a low molecular weight, thus the ability to penetrate the skin deeply. As with any exfoliating active ingredient, the first use may cause slight redness and even mild tingling.

• The gentle peeling serum with 10% lactic acid is a good alternative for skin that has not tolerated products with glycolic acid. Indeed, unlike glycolic acid, this acid is larger in size, so it will penetrate the epidermis less deeply.

• FERNANDEZ L. F. & co. Chemical peeling: a valuable instrument in the clinic. Actas Dermo-Sifiliograficas (2017).