Micellar water, oil, milk: how to choose your makeup remover?

To achieve beautiful skin, removing makeup is an essential step. But for it to be 100% effective, it is absolutely necessary to choose the right product that aligns with your needs. Here are some tips to help you make the right choice:

1. Considering one's skin type:

   Because each skin has different needs, it is important to take into account the vulnerabilities and strengths of your own, in order to choose the appropriate makeup remover. If the oil or balm are ideal formulas for all skin types, the micellar water has more effects on oily skin. Milk, on the other hand, speaks more to dry skin, which need rich care to rebuild their hydrolipidic barrier and meet their needs for fatty substances. Finally, gels will be more suitable for normal to combination skin, thanks to their balancing and purifying action.

2. Understanding the advantages and disadvantages of each formula:

   As with all cosmetics, makeup removers also have their share of advantages and disadvantages:

• Cleansing Oils:

  Contrary to appearances, oil does not leave a greasy film on the epidermis. Therefore, it can be perfectly used by oily skin types. However, it is advisable to opt for a cleansing oil based on non-comedogenic vegetable oil, such as sweet almond, hazelnut or jojoba oil. Moreover, cleansing oil is very effective at removing all types of makeup, even waterproof makeup which is particularly resistant. However, caution should be exercised with dry, sensitive and reactive skin types, where this type of makeup remover should be avoided as it needs to be rinsed off with water. These skin types tend to react to the presence of lime in water.

• Cleansing gels:

  Cleansing gels have the ability to purify the skin without damaging the protective barrier. Light and easy to use, they were originally only suitable for normal to combination skin, as they were primarily composed of surfactants known for their drying properties. However, today, they also contain moisturising agents such as aloe vera or hyaluronic acid. They can now be suitable for dry skin. The only drawback of cleansing gels at present is that they are not very effective on waterproof makeup, where it is only partially removed by the cleansing gel.

• Cleansing Milks:

  Cleansing milks have the ability to remove makeup and impurities without the need for rinsing with water, making them particularly favoured by those with dry and sensitive skin. In addition to removing makeup, they provide hydration to the skin without causing irritation, thereby strengthening the skin barrier. However, they may not meet the needs of combination to oily skin types, who often find them too rich.

• Micellar Water:

  Composed of small particles of surfactants, also known as micelles, which attract both oil and water, themicellar wateris suitable for all skin types, although it is more recommended for combination to oily skin. However, it can tend to dry out the skin. Indeed, its famous micelles remain active on the surface of the epidermis and can prove to be too astringent if you have atopic skin and a skin barrier, therefore, more fragile than normal. In this case, consider rinsing your skin. Moreover, micellar water is not very effective against waterproof makeup.

Whether for your health or for your skin, certain ingredients should be prioritised so that your makeup remover can be incorporated into your beauty routine without counterproductive effects. A healthy makeup removing oil should be formulated from plant esters and/or unmodified vegetable oils, such as sweet almond oil, sunflower seed oil, jojoba oil, hazelnut oil, etc.... Plant esters are common oils known as fractionated (coconut, rapeseed, palm, etc...), meaning they have been stripped during a gentle chemical process of their heaviest constituents, as well as their fragrance. The result is natural lipid fluids, very light, highly penetrating, silky and soft. These esters help to fluidify the formula, allowing it to emulsify better and thus facilitate makeup removal. Indeed, plant esters are less heavy and less difficult to rinse off than unmodified vegetable oils. As plant esters, we can mention caprylic/capric triglyceride derived from coconut oil, or isopropyl isostearate derived from rapeseed oil.

Regarding the surfactants found in micellar waters or in cleansing oils, it is recommended to opt for those that are gentle and fatty, such as PEG-6 caprylic/capric glycerides or poloxamer 184 or even polyglyceryl-4-oleate.

Just like creams, serums or lotions, makeup removers can also contain ingredients harmful to the skin and health in their formula. Among the five major elements to avoid, include:

1. Thesulphates,which allow the formula to foam, are similar to agents that can be found in household cleaning products.

2. Thesilicones,which provide immediate comfort upon application but eventually clog the pores, due to a structure similar to that of wax.

3. Thephthalates, which are chemical components harmful to health.

4. The parabens, which disrupt the endocrine system.

5. Themineral oils,derived from petrochemicals, therefore have no virtues for the skin and are comedogenic.