Cosmetics: nigella-based skin care treatments.

The nigella (Nigella sativa), also known as black cumin, has been used for centuries in the Middle East, North Africa and Asia for both culinary and phytotherapeutic applications. In cosmetics, it is primarily the nigella seed oil, obtained by cold pressing, which has attracted attention. Largely composed of fatty acids, it also contains bioactive compounds such as thymoquinone and various phytosterols. This biological richness underpins the emollient, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of nigella oil, which explain its appeal in formulations dedicated to sensitive or redness-prone skin.

The use of black cumin seed oil does not stop there, and this vegetable oil is also listed in the INCI nomenclature for hair care products (Nigella Sativa Seed Oil). In this context, black cumin seed oil helps to soften hair fibres by forming a film that coats their surface and to protect the scalp. However, its effects strongly depend on its concentration, quality and the way it is incorporated into the formulation.

The black cumin seed oil can be used on its own, blended with other oils or combined with other active ingredients in skincare and haircare treatments. For this latter option, the ingredient is incorporated into numerous formulations, including, among others:

The make-up removers formulated with nigella oil.

In cleansing oils, nigella oil is incorporated for its affinity with lipids and its interesting lipid profile, capable of solubilising makeup, sebum and certain sunscreen filters. The principle of oil cleansing is based on the rule: "oil dissolves oil". The lipids in the formula capture pigments and lipophilic impurities on the skin’s surface while minimising skin dehydration.

It is, however, important to distinguish between a formulated make-up removing oil and a pure vegetable oil.

Contrary to popular belief, a single plant oil used alone cannot remove make-up from the skin. In the absence of surfactants or emulsifiers, the oil will indeed dissolve make-up, but cannot be properly rinsed away with water. It then leaves a residual greasy film that can trap impurities on the skin’s surface. In contrast, cleansing oils combine plant oils, such as nigella seed oil, with emulsifying agents capable of transforming the oil into a milky emulsion on contact with water, thus ensuring effective rinsing while respecting the skin barrier

Soaps containing Nigella sativa seed oil.

In soaps and cleansing bars, black seed oil is valued for its ability to support the skin barrier while preserving the product’s cleansing function. Rich in fatty acids, it contributes to limiting washing-induced transepidermal water loss and maintaining the cohesion of the hydrolipidic film. Black seed oil in soaps can thus help to reduce the sensation of tightness often associated with cleansers. These soaps are frequently intended for skin prone to redness, owing to the soothing and anti-inflammatory properties attributed to the thymoquinone contained in black seed oil.

The serums containing nigella seed oil.

Nigella oil serums are most often formulated as oil serums, sometimes blended with other vegetable oils or liposoluble active ingredients. Their fluid texture generally confers good affinity with the hydrolipidic film of the skin. Unlike creams, these serums contain no water and are primarily intended to nourish and protect the skin, rather than strictly hydrate it.

The facial creams enriched with nigella oil.

Black cumin seed oil facial creams combine this plant oil with an aqueous phase and emulsifying agents, producing textures lighter than oil serums. In this type of formulation, black cumin seed oil primarily functions to support the skin barrier, reduce transepidermal water loss and deliver a soothing effect to reactive skin. It is often incorporated into creams aimed at sensitive or redness-prone skin, alongside hydrating actives such as glycerin or hyaluronic acid, for example.

The masks with nigella oil.

Nigella oil masks are most often designed to be nourishing and soothing, providing occasional relief to vulnerable skin. Incorporated into a creamy or gel-like base, nigella oil helps to reinforce the skin barrier and to alleviate sensations of heat or discomfort. Once again, this type of treatment is often intended for reactive or redness-prone skin. These masks are applied once or twice a week onto clean skin. Some can be left on overnight to replace moisturiser, while others must be rinsed off.

Nigella sativa oil scrubs.

Although nigella oil has no exfoliating properties (it is neither keratolytic nor available as micro-beads capable of mechanically removing dead skin cells), it is sometimes included in scrubs. Here, it helps to reduce the discomfort sometimes associated with scrubbing and leave the skin more supple after rinsing. Thus, these formulations seek to combine an exfoliating action with a nourishing and softening effect, so that the skin is not only rid of dead cells but also feels more comfortable and softer to the touch.

The shampoos containing Nigella sativa oil.

The role of nigella oil in shampoos is largely the same as in skin cleansers. Shampoo efficacy relies on surfactants, which can remove sebum and impurities from the scalp, but may also cause irritation. Nigella oil helps to counterbalance this effect by providing lipids that help preserve the hydrolipidic film and limit the sensation of tightness. Thanks to its soothing properties, it is also valued in shampoos formulated for sensitive or itchy scalps and, even though it is a plant oil, it does not weigh the hair down when the formula is well balanced.

The hair care treatments with Nigella sativa oil.

In hair care, nigella oil is mainly found in length-specific masks or nourishing leave-in treatments. Its richness in fatty acids allows it to envelop the hair fibre and improve hair suppleness. Pure nigella oil can be used as an oil bath applied before shampooing, but when it is incorporated into a mask or hair treatment, it is generally combined with other vegetable oils and conditioning agents that complement its action and enhance its distribution on the hair, resulting in a more uniform effect.

The lip care treatments with nigella oil.

The lips form a particularly delicate area: their skin is thin and low in sebaceous glands and therefore prone to dehydration and chapping. When incorporated into lip balms or oils, nigella oil helps to nourish the lips and to compensate for their natural lack of hydration.

• HOSSEINZADEH H. & al. Dermatological effects of Nigella sativa and its constituent, thymoquinone: A review. Nuts and Seeds in Health and Disease Prevention (2020).

• KHACHEMOUNE A. & al. A review of Nigella sativa plant-based therapy in dermatology. International Journal of Dermatology (2021).

• NEHETE J. & al. Nigella sativa: A comprehensive review on its history, traditional uses, adulteration, allied species, phytochemistry, and applications in cosmetics. Journal of Ayurveda and Holistic Medicine (2025).