Vitamin C is often presented as a powerful antioxidant capable of protecting the skin from daily environmental stressors, but its role in modulating inflammatory processes is discussed less frequently. This lesser-known aspect nevertheless raises several questions. Does vitamin C really have anti-inflammatory effects? In this article, we untangle fact from fiction.
Anti-inflammatory properties of vitamin C?
Published on December 2, 2025, updated on December 2, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 6 min of reading
Themes:
The key points to remember.
Vitamin C has potent antioxidant properties, capable of neutralising free radicals that stimulate inflammatory processes.
Vitamin C also acts on certain inflammatory pathways and reduces the production of pro‐inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-6 and IL-1β).
Vitamin C may therefore be of interest for calming erythema.
The evidence in vitro is solid, but clinical studies remain limited and need to be completed to confirm these effects.
4 minutes to understand your skin. Our dermatological diagnostic guides you toward the ideal skincare for your specific needs. Simple, quick, personalized.
Vitamin C, an anti-inflammatory agent?
Also known as ascorbic acid, the vitamin C is a major vitamin in the body. Water-soluble in nature, unlike the vitamin E which is fat-soluble, it helps to neutralise free radicals in the aqueous compartments of the skin, such as the cytosol and the extracellular fluid, thereby helping to slow its ageing. The vitamin C also stimulates the activity of fibroblasts, the cells that synthesise the collagen and elastin, the structural proteins of the dermal extracellular matrix.
Vitamin C could also help to combat inflammation.
Indeed, inflammation is closely linked to oxidative stress. When free radicals accumulate in skin tissues, they initiate a cascade of molecular signals capable of damaging DNA, proteins and lipids, generating a succession of often invisible yet real micro-inflammations. These reactions can be amplified by the activation of nuclear factors such as AP-1 or NF-κB, both regulators of the immune response. Their stimulation leads to the release of pro-inflammatory cytokines, including TNF-α and IL-6, and to the overexpression of the enzymes COX-2 and iNOS, both contributing to the maintenance of an inflammatory state. That is why antioxidants, such as vitamin C, play an interesting preventive role in inflammation.
But the action of vitamin C extends further. Several studies have shown that ascorbic acid directly modulates inflammatory signalling pathways, notably NF-κB and MAPK, leading to decreased production of pro-inflammatory cytokines. This molecule also helps to reduce the expression of the pro-inflammatory enzymes COX-2 and iNOS, which are involved in vasodilation and skin redness.
Vitamin C thus appears to establish itself as both a preventive and an active agent in inflammation.
However, even though the data in vitro demonstrate convincingly the anti-inflammatory properties of vitamin C, the clinical evidence remains limited. The available studies, two of which are presented below, suggest beneficial effects for the skin, but their number remains insufficient. It therefore seems necessary to conduct further clinical trials to confirm and refine the efficacy of vitamin C in modulating cutaneous inflammation.
| Study | Protocol | Results | Limitations |
|---|---|---|---|
| WEST & al. (1998) | 20 patients following CO₂ laser treatment. Over eight weeks, a vitamin C–based cream or serum was applied to one half of the face, with the vehicle applied to the other half. | Improvement in erythema was 34.4% greater with the cream and 16.3% greater with the serum. | Small sample (20 patients), erythema assessed using a visual scoring system; no instrumental tool described. |
| PINNELL & al. (2008) | Application of a solution of 15% L-ascorbic acid, 1% α-tocopherol and 0.5% ferulic acid to skin explants for 4 days and comparison with the solution without active ingredients. Exposure to varying doses of UV radiation (2–10 MED, the minimal erythemal dose required to induce sunburn). | For treated explants, there was significant protection against erythema, with the formation of fewer sunburn cells (8.4 versus 31.5 with the vehicle), and a significant reduction in the production of IL-1α (50%), IL-6 (62%), IL-8 (90%), IL-10 (63%) and TNF-α (18%). | Ex vivo, non-clinical study with simulated UV exposure; no evaluation under natural conditions. |
Summary of two studies illustrating the anti-inflammatory effects of vitamin C.
Sources
WEST T. & al. Effect of topical vitamin C on postoperative carbon dioxide laser resurfacing erythema. Dermatologic Surgery (1998).
PINNELL S. R. & al. A topical antioxidant solution containing vitamins C and E stabilized by ferulic acid provides protection for human skin against damage caused by ultraviolet irradiation. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2008).
TELANG P. S. Vitamin C in dermatology. Indian Dermatology Online Journal (2013).
ABED Y. & al. Effect of vitamin C on inflammation and metabolic markers in hypertensive and/or diabetic obese adults: A randomized controlled trial. Drug Design, Development and Therapy (2015).
SIGNORI L. U. & al. Effects of vitamin C on oxidative stress, inflammation, muscle soreness, and strength following acute exercise: Meta-analyses of randomized clinical trials. European Journal of Nutrition (2020).
ZHONG Z. & al. Anti-inflammatory effects of natural products from vitamin C-rich fruits. Food Frontiers (2024).
