When should you use arbutin acid?

Also known asalpha-arbutin, arbutin acid is a natural derivative of hydroquinone, a bleaching agent banned in cosmetic products by European regulations since 2001 due to its carcinogenic potential. Unlike hydroquinone, arbutin acid is not considered a risk factor in the development of a disease called exogenous ochronosis and demonstrates good skin tolerance.

Primarily found in the bearberry plant, arbutin acid visibly diminishes skin marks such as pigmentation spots or even acne scars.

Hyperpigmentation is defined as a disruption in the pigmentation process : the melanin, pigment responsible for the natural colouration of the skin, is overproduced in certain areas which leads to the appearance of brown, red or pink spots that can sometimes be unsightly.

The molecular structure of arbutin acid is notably similar to that of tyrosine, an amino acid that is converted into melanin under the influence of the enzyme tyrosinase. Thus, arbutin acid binds to the active site of the enzyme, which inhibits its activity and consequently the synthesis of melanin, thereby preventing the appearance of pigmentation spots. In other words, the action of alpha arbutin, being akin to tyrosine, integrates and competes with it in order to slow down melanogenesis, without affecting the viability of the cells.

In order to fade various types of skin marks, different galenic forms containing alpha-arbutin are now available on the cosmetic market. This active ingredient can thus be found in creams, lotions, toners, aqueous serums, or even night masks.

Skincare treatments with alpha-arbutin can be safely used twice a day and this daily. This active ingredient is not photosensitising (it does not increase skin sensitivity to the sun's UV rays), so you can apply your product morning and evening. However, do ensure to protect your skin every morning with a broad-spectrum sun protection.

For instance, the serum for pigmentation spots from Typology, which contains 2% alpha-arbutin acid and lemon extract known for its brightening properties, should be applied morning and evening on clean, dry skin. We recommend using this serum daily for a period of at least 6 weeks in order to observe its effects on your pigmentation spots.

Please note : This serum can also be applied to other parts of the body, such as the back, which is often affected by acne, or the underarms, which can darken due to repeated shaving.

• KAULPIBOON J. & co. Optimisation of Amylomaltase for the Synthesis of α-Arbutin Derivatives as Tyrosinase Inhibitors. Carbohydrate Research (2020).

• MOHAMMADAMINI H. & al. A comprehensive review of the therapeutic potential of alpha-arbutin. Phytotherapy Research (2021).