Why use an exfoliating facial mask?

Peeling mask: what is it?

The facial peeling mask is a product that has earned its place in skin-care routines. Unlike a hydrating mask or soothing one, which is left on to nourish or calm the skin, the peeling mask aims to exfoliate the skin and stimulate cell renewal. These effects derive from its composition, which is often rich in hydroxy acids (AHAs, BHAs and/or PHAs), or in enzymes, molecules capable of dissolving dead cells that accumulate on the surface of the stratum corneum. The facial peeling mask is applied like a conventional mask, in a thin layer, left on for a few minutes before rinsing. This resting time allows the active ingredients to work gently, without the need to rub or massage the skin. Used regularly – once or twice a week depending on skin sensitivity – the peeling mask restores a smoother, more radiant surface to the face.

What is the difference between a peel-off mask and an exfoliating scrub?

The benefit of a peeling mask is also measured by how it differs from a scrub traditional alternative. Scrubs rely on mechanical action: tiny abrasive particles detach impurities by friction. While effective, this method can sometimes be too harsh for sensitive or redness-prone skin. The peeling mask, by contrast, relies on chemical exfoliation: acids gradually disrupt the junctions binding the cells of the stratum corneum together – the desmosomes – allowing corneocytes to be released and skin flakes to be removed. It is therefore preferable for sensitive skin, unless it is very highly concentrated in AHAs.

Why use an exfoliating facial mask?

Given that the skin has a natural exfoliation mechanism, one might wonder why it is necessary to use a facial peeling mask. Indeed, the cells of the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of the epidermis, gradually shed to be replaced by new cells originating from the deeper layers. This complete regeneration cycle takes approximately four weeks in a healthy adult.

However, with age, cutaneous metabolism slows down and cellular renewal becomes less efficient.

Dead cells accumulate, the intercellular junctions that bind them become more compact, and the skin loses its elasticity and radiance. This phenomenon is often accompanied by a dull complexion, an uneven skin texture, even a thickening of certain areas and a feeling of dryness.

Modèle de peau non exfolié (à gauche) et exfolié (à droite). — Non-exfoliated skin model (on the left) and exfoliated skin model (on the right).
Source: DEHAVEN C. Mechanisms of exfoliation. Innovative Skincare (2015).

This is where the peeling mask comes into play. Thanks to its exfoliating agents, it promotes the removal of dead cells accumulated on the skin’s surface and stimulates the natural process of cutaneous regeneration. By accelerating this renewal, it helps to maintain a thinner, more even epidermis, reducing roughness and restoring radiance to the complexion. This mechanism is particularly beneficial with age, when cell turnover slows and the skin becomes duller and less supple. By facilitating skin renewal, peeling masks thus contribute to the prevention of visible signs of ageing, such as the premature appearance of fine lines, loss of radiance and alteration of skin texture.

Beyond preventing skin ageing, peeling masks also help to revive the radiance of the complexion. Indeed, the accumulation of dead cells on the surface of the epidermis forms a thick, uneven stratum corneum that prevents light from reflecting properly off the skin. This barrier scatters light unevenly, which can give the face a grey, tired and lacklustre appearance. By promoting the removal of these cells, peeling masks enable the skin to regain a smoother, more uniform surface, optimising light reflection and restoring the complexion’s natural luminosity

Furthermore, peeling masks are also useful for preventing imperfections. By promoting the exfoliation of dead cells and the removal of accumulated impurities, they help unclog pores, thereby reducing the risk of comedones and microcysts appearing. This preventive action is particularly beneficial for combination to oily skin or prone to acne, but they benefit all skin types. By keeping pores clear and promoting regular cell turnover, peeling masks help maintain a smoother, more even and healthy skin texture, while reducing the appearance of irregularities and imperfections.

Finally, by promoting the elimination of dead cells and refining the stratum corneum, the peeling mask prepares the skin to receive the treatments applied subsequently. Indeed, renewing the skin enables the active ingredients in serums, creams or oils to be better absorbed, thus maximising their efficacy. Whether they are moisturising agents, antioxidants or targeting specific signs of ageing, prior exfoliation optimises their action and enhances the benefits of the skincare routine.