What constitutes a radiance-boosting concentrate?

In illuminating skincare products, pearlescent pigments provide the luminous aspect of the treatment on the skin. These ingredients are insoluble in water but remain suspended in the formulas. They provide coverage to the skin, and are widely used in cosmetics.

Coloured pigments are suspended with the help of other ingredients (often oils) that act as binders within a typically aqueous phase known as dispersing. The pearlescent pigments can be of mineral, organic, natural or synthetic origin.

• Mineral-based pigments are easy to identify in the INCI list, their Colour Index begins with CI 77XXX. Here are the main ones used in cosmetics / makeup, frequently found in illuminating formulas: CI 77891 White (Titanium Dioxide, found in our illuminating concentrate), CI 77491 Red (Iron Trioxide, also found in our illuminating concentrate), CI 77499 Black (Iron Tetraoxide), White Mica (CI 77019), CI 77492 Yellow (Iron Oxide)...

• The natural pigments are typically of plant origin. Their Colour Index begins with CI 75XXX. For instance, there is CI 75470 Carmine Red, the CI 75120 Orange (Annatto), the CI 75130 Orange (Beta-carotene), the CI 75300 Yellow (Curcumin, the main pigment of turmeric).

• The organic pigments are composed of at least one carbon atom, unlike minerals which are derived from rocks. These types of pigments are primarily manufactured synthetically. Examples include CI 77266 Carbon Black or CI 74160 Blue (phthalocyanine).

It should be noted that the nanometric size of certain pigments is becoming increasingly controversial, particularly due to the inhalation of these particles and their potential deposits on lung tissues. At Typology, we exclude all materials in the form of nanoparticles from our formulas.

Some illuminating concentrates are true hybrid formulas, straddling the line between skincare and makeup. The two types of active ingredients most commonly used in these products are as follows.

• Active moisturising ingredients such as the hyaluronic acid, the provitamin B5 (INCI: Panthenol), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), the glycerine, the polyglutamic acid, aloe vera gel...

• Antioxidant actives that will brighten and unify the complexion while reducing the formation of pigmentation spots. This family includes vitamin C, ferulic acid, resveratrol, vitamin E, etc...

It should be noted, some illuminating skincare products also contain chemical and/or mineral UV filters.

• Some mineral oils

  Mineral oils are synthetic fats obtained through the distillation and refining of fossil fuels (coal, petroleum or certain shales). They are primarily composed of saturated hydrocarbons. Among the most popular are paraffin, silicone and petroleum jelly. In cosmetics, mineral oils are used to combat dryness, skin dehydration and to provide suppleness to the skin. Indeed, they deposit an occlusive film on the skin's surface, which limits its natural water loss and artificially maintains its hydration.

  These mineral oils pose no threats to human health, however, their manufacturing process is highly polluting. Take the example of isododecane, commonly found in illuminating concentrates. This ingredient is obtained following a process called steam cracking, which is very energy-intensive and polluting. 1 kilo of oil thus transformed releases 3.1 kilos of CO2 !

  The mineral oils to avoid, which are blacklisted at Typology, are referenced under the following INCI names: Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Paraffin, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum jelly, Cera Microcristallina, Ceresin, Ozokerite, Polyisobutilene, Synthetic wax, Hydrogenated polyisobutene – Isododecane, Isohexadecane, Silicone quaternium or even mehylsilanol and Ceresin.

• Of silicones

  These compoundsare sometimes found in illuminating concentrates. Silicones pose a concerning environmental impact. These chemically inert molecules takean average of 400 to 500 years to degrade. Furthermore, even though not all silicones have harmful effects on health and some are completely safe to use, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasiloxane(D5) are bothsuspected to be endocrine disruptors. On the other hand, cyclomethicone (a mix of silicones D4, D5 and D6 in varying proportions) is recognised as anendocrine disruptor. It isbanned in organic productsand should not be put on the market in rinse-off cosmetic products at aconcentration equal to or greater than 0.1%by weight of each substance since 31 January 2020.

• Some antimicrobial preservatives

  To prevent the growth of bacteria, some illuminating concentrates contain phenoxyethanol. However, this preservative, which is easily absorbed through the skin, has potential irritant properties. Some studies also suspect neurotoxic effects.

• Some synthetic antioxidants

  The BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and the BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) can also be present in illuminating concentrates for their antioxidant properties. To identify them, they are usually at the end of the INCI list. They prevent oxidation and rancidity of formulas. However, these two substances are suspected to be endocrine disruptors. In a nutshell, endocrine disruptors are molecules capable of deregulating the hormonal system. Moreover, the A.R.T.A.C. (French Association for Anti-Cancer Therapeutic Research) classifies them among potentially carcinogenic substances. Finally, both molecules are also known to be sensitising, thus being a source of allergies.

In line with the precautionary principle, we exclude from our formulas many ingredients that could pose a risk to human health or the environment, retaining only the essentials. Transparency and authenticity are paramount through simple and concise formulas, made in France, providing a solution to specific concerns, for all skin types. In this regard, find our blacklist of ingredients eliminating all substances potentially harmful to health and/or the environment.

We have developed a radiance-boosting concentrate formulated from 98% naturally derived ingredients and free from silicones. Applying it couldn't be simpler! It is to be mixed with your moisturising cream or your tinted serum, for a luminous and natural finish. Minerals reflect light to enhance the skin's natural glow.It also contains two essential active ingredients for skin radiance and hydration.

• The Vitamin C

  Naturally present in many plants, vitamin C is a powerful antioxidant, known for brightening the complexion, reducing pigmentation spots and slowing down the photo-ageing of the skin. Extracted from corn, our natural vitamin C is stable to light and heat, and is specially developed to penetrate the skin effectively. This molecule contributes to maintaining a luminous skin by trapping free radicals generated by exposure to the sun, pollution or tobacco. The skin is then better protected from external aggressions.

• Thealoe vera

  Rich in minerals, vitamins and amino acids, aloe vera pulp is renowned for its moisturising and soothing properties. Its high water retention capacity helps combat dehydration and soften the epidermis.It is ideal for weakened or damaged skin. Its soothing action is also appreciated in irritated, sensitive skin or skin prone to redness.