What Are Illuminating Glow Drops Made Of?

In illuminating skincare products, pearlescent pigments bring the luminous appearance of the product to the skin. These ingredients are insoluble in water, but remain suspended in the formulas. They add coverage to the skin, and are widely used in cosmetics.

Color pigments are suspended by other ingredients (often oils), which act as binders within a typically aqueous dispersant phase. Pearlescent pigments can be of mineral, organic, natural or synthetic origin.

• Pigments of mineral origin are easy to spot in the INCI list: their color index begins with CI 77XXX. Here are the main ones used in cosmetics/make-up, and therefore frequently found in illuminating formulas: CI 77891 White (Titanium dioxide, also found in our glow drops), CI 77491 Red (Iron trioxide, also found in our glow drops), CI 77499 Black (Iron tetroxide), Mica White (CI 77019), CI 77492 Yellow (Iron oxide)…

• Natural pigments are generally of plant origin. Their color index starts with CI 75XXX. Examples include CI 75470 Carmine Red, CI 75120 Orange (Rocou), CI 75130 Orange (Beta-carotene), CI 75300 Yellow (Curcumin, the main pigment in turmeric).

• Organic pigments are made up of at least one carbon atom, unlike minerals, which are derived from rocks. These types of pigments are mainly produced synthetically. Examples include CI 77266 Carbon Black and CI 74160 Blue (phthalocyanine).

It's worth noting that the nanometric size of certain pigments is now increasingly controversial, not least because of the inhalation of these particles and their potential deposition on lung tissue. At Typology, we exclude all ingredients in nanoparticle form from our formulas.

Some illuminating drops are true hybrid formulas, somewhere between skincare and make-up. The two most common types of active ingredients used in these products are as follows.

• Moisturizing actives such as hyaluronic acid, provitamin B5 (INCI: Panthenol), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (PCA), glycerin, polyglutamic acid, aloe vera gel…

• Antioxidant active ingredients that brighten and even out the complexion while reducing the formation of pigmentation spots. This family also includes vitamin C, ferulic acid, resveratrol, vitamin E, etc.

Note that some illuminating skincare products also contain chemical or mineral UV filters.

• Certain mineral oils

  Mineral oils are synthetic fats obtained by distillation and refining of fossil fuels (coal, petroleum or certain shales). They are composed mainly of saturated hydrocarbons. Among the most popular are kerosene, silicone, and petroleum jelly. In cosmetics, mineral oils are used to combat dryness and skin dehydration, and to make the skin supple. In fact, they deposit an occlusive film on the skin's surface, which limits its natural water loss and keeps it artificially moisturized.

  These mineral oils are not harmful to human health, but the manufacturing process is highly polluting. Take the example of isododecane, frequently found in illuminating face drops. This ingredient is obtained through a process known as steam cracking, which is very energy-intensive and polluting. 1 kilo of petroleum processed in this way emits 3.1 kilos of CO2!

  The mineral oils to avoid, blacklisted at Typology, are listed under the following INCI names: Paraffinum Liquidum, Petrolatum, Paraffin, Mineral Oil, Petrolatum jelly, Cera Microcristallina, Ceresin, Ozokerite, Polyisobutilene, Synthetic wax, Hydrogenated polyisobutene - Isododecane, Isohexadecane, Silicone quaternium or mehylsilanol and Ceresin.

• Silicones

  These compounds are sometimes found in illuminating drops. Silicones have a worrying environmental impact. These chemically inert molecules take an average of 400 to 500 years to degrade. What's more, while not all silicones are harmful to health, and some are completely safe to use, cyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and cyclopentasiloxane (D5) are both suspected endocrine disruptors. On the other hand, cyclomethicone (a mixture of D4, D5 and D6 silicones in varying proportions) is recognized as an endocrine disruptor. It is banned in organic cosmetics and must not be marketed in rinse-off cosmetics in a concentration equal to or greater than 0.1% by weight of each substance from January 31, 2020.

• Certain antimicrobial preservatives

  To prevent bacterial growth, some glow drops contain phenoxyethanol. This preservative is easily absorbed through the skin, and is a potential irritant. Some studies also suspect neurotoxic effects.

• Certain synthetic antioxidants

  BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) may also be present in illuminating drops for their antioxidant properties. To spot them, they are generally at the end of the INCI list. They help prevent oxidation and rancidity in formulas. However, these two substances are suspected endocrine disruptors. In a nutshell, endocrine disruptors are molecules capable of deregulating the hormonal system. What's more, the A.R.T.A.C. (French Association for Cancer Therapeutic Research) classifies them as potentially carcinogenic substances. Finally, both molecules are also known to be sensitizing, and therefore a source of allergies.

In line with the precautionary principle, we exclude from our formulas many ingredients likely to present a risk to human health or the environment, keeping only the essentials. Transparency and authenticity are the order of the day, through simple, short formulas, made in France, providing answers to specific concerns, for all skin types. With this in mind, take a look at our blacklist of ingredients, which eliminates all substances potentially harmful to health and the environment.

We've developed glow drops formulated with 98% natural ingredients and no silicones. It's easy to apply! Mix with your moisturizer or tinted serum for a natural, luminous finish. Light-reflecting minerals enhance skin's natural radiance. It also contains two active ingredients essential to skin radiance and hydration.

• Vitamin C

Naturally present in many plants, vitamin C is a powerful anti-oxidant known to brighten the complexion, reduce pigmentation spots and slow skin photoaging. Extracted from corn, our natural vitamin C is stable to light and heat, and has been specially developed to penetrate the skin. This molecule helps keep skin luminous by trapping free radicals generated by sun exposure, pollution, or smoking. The skin is thus better protected from external aggressions.

• Aloe vera

Rich in minerals, vitamins and amino acids, aloe vera pulp is renowned for its moisturizing and soothing properties. Its high water retention capacity helps combat dehydration and soften the epidermis, making it ideal for fragile or damaged skin. Its soothing action is also appreciated by irritated, sensitive or reddened skin.