Is an organic sun cream as effective as a non-organic sun cream?

Before comparing the effectiveness of organic and non-organic sunscreens, it is important to understand what sets them apart. An organic sunscreen is a natural formulation subject to stricter regulation. Contrary to common belief, all natural cosmetics are not organic: to earn this designation, a product must meet a set of criteria defined by recognised labels. One of the better known labels in France is Cosmebio, an organisation that certifies products according to specific standards, such as the COSMOS standard. This standard covers in detail all aspects of sourcing, manufacturing, distribution and testing of cosmetic products. For a cosmetic product, including a sunscreen, to be considered organic, it must comply with the following rules:

• An organic sunscreen must contain at least 95% naturally derived ingredients.

• 95% of the plant ingredients in the formula must come from organic farming.

• At least 20% of ingredients must be organic. This percentage may seem low. This is due to the high water content in cosmetic formulations, often around 70–80%. Water cannot be certified organic, as it is not derived from agriculture, nor are minerals.

Another central difference: organic sunscreens use only mineral filters.

Certified organic sunscreens are limited to two filters: titanium dioxide (TiO₂) and zinc oxide (ZnO). As effective as organic filters and operating similarly, mineral filters present challenges in texture and skin finish: they are often criticised for leaving a white cast, unless used as nanoparticles, which is prohibited by most organic standards. This feature of organic sunscreens may be a drawback for deeper skin tones.

On the contrary, non-organic sunscreens rely on organic filters, also called chemical filters, sometimes combined with mineral filters. With 26 chemical UV filters authorised in the European Union and 14 in the United States, it is clear that non-organic sunscreens have a much wider formulation range. These filters are effective and allow lightweight, invisible textures, but some are controversial due to potential toxicity to corals, marine life or possible disruption of the human endocrine system. In addition to organic filters, certified organic sunscreens exclude pollutant actives, for example those derived from petroleum, such as silicones, mineral oils and plastic polymers. Certain polluting processing techniques, such as ionisation or ethoxylation, are also prohibited.