Immortelle essential oil for rosacea?

Rosacea is the most common form of couperose , also known as vascular rosacea. It is characterised by widespread redness, forming patches on the face. These are usually accompanied by hot flushes and significant skin sensitivity. In cases of couperose, there is also a dilation of the small blood vessels present under the skin. These are characteristic of this skin condition and are called telangiectasias. There are many causes of couperose: heredity, high temperatures, stress, spicy food... Without appropriate treatment, couperose can worsen and cause pimples or affect the eyes, hence the need to consult a dermatologist at the first signs.

At present, there is no evidence that immortelle essential oil can act against rosacea.

Obtained through hydrodistillation of the flowering tops of Helichrysum italicum, the essential oil of immortelle, or Italian helichrysum, is among the most appreciated essential oils in cosmetics. However, while it provides numerous benefits to the skin and hair, no study has so far demonstrated that it can help combat rosacea. Nevertheless, it is possible to extrapolate certain virtues of the Italian helichrysum essential oil, potentially relevant in cases of rosacea.

Can Immortelle essential oil help to reduce the characteristic vasodilation associated with rosacea?

If the Italian helichrysum essential oil is often cited as a natural solution for rosacea, it is due to its vasoconstrictive properties. Indeed, some studies have shown that this essential oil could inhibit the synthesis of nitric oxide (NO), produced under the effect of the enzyme nitric oxide synthase (NOS). However, nitric oxide reduces systemic vascular resistance and blood pressure, while increasing vascular permeability. These various phenomena cause a dilation of the blood vessels. According to a study in vitro, it seems that the addition of 250 μg/mL of immortelle essential oil significantly reduces the nitric oxide content in BV-2 cells, a cellular model frequently used in biology.

This potential vasoconstrictor effect of the Italian helichrysum essential oil could be interesting in cases of rosacea, a dermatosis characterised by a significant dilation of blood vessels. It would be interesting to see this hypothesis confirmed or refuted in clinical trials involving individuals suffering from rosacea.

Can Italian Helichrysum essential oil reduce inflammation caused by rosacea?

The typical redness of rosacea is not solely due to the significant dilation of the facial blood vessels, but also to skin inflammation, another element against which the essential oil of immortelle could potentially act. Indeed, this oil is rich in italidiones, compounds capable of inhibiting the activities of lipoxygenase (LOX) and cyclooxygenase (COX). Now, LOX and COX are at the forefront when an inflammation is declared and contribute to the release of prostaglandins and leukotrienes, inflammatory molecules.

It has also been demonstrated that Italian helichrysum essential oil can suppress the activation of the NF-κB factor. The net result is the inhibition of the production of TNF-α and interleukins-1β and 6 (IL-1β and IL-6), pro-inflammatory cytokines, as well as inducible inflammatory enzymes such as mPG2S. Therefore, it can be cautiously assumed that immortelle essential oil could soothe rosacea-prone skin and potentially reduce the redness characteristic of this condition. However, in the absence of clinical studies on this subject, we cannot assert this.

If the Italian helichrysum essential oil is generally well tolerated, it is advised not to use it undiluted, especially on sensitive or rosacea-prone skin.

• PALMEIRA DE OLIVEIRA R. & others. Helichrysum italicum: From traditional use to scientific data. Journal of Ethnopharmacology (2013).

• OBERMAYER B. & al. Skin and Vascular Fitness. SOFW Journal - Home and Personal Care Ingredients & Formulations (2023).

• KONCIC M. & al. Hydroxypropyl-β-Cyclodextrin-Based Helichrysum italicum Extracts: Antioxidant and Cosmeceutical Activity and Biocompatibility. Antioxidants (2023).

• LOPEZ V. & al. An integrated in vitro approach to the enzymatic and antioxidant mechanisms of four commercially available essential oils (Copaifera officinalis, Gaultheria fragrantissima, Helichrysum italicum, and Syzygium aromaticum) traditionally applied topically for their anti-inflammatory effects. Frontiers in Pharmacology (2024).