Bi-phase repairing serum: when dermatology meets minimalism.

Formulating a skincare treatment for reactive skin demands a thorough understanding of cutaneous physiology and strict vigilance regarding avoidable irritants. Typology has opted to incorporate a dermatologist’s expertise at the very outset of the development process.

In your opinion, what does direct collaboration between a dermatologist and a brand contribute to the development of a skincare product like this?

Response from Dr AMODE: "Direct collaboration between a practising private dermatologist and a brand in the design of a cosmetic product is a well-established approach. Early dialogue, from the identification of the need, has made it possible to propose a pragmatic solution to a routinely encountered problem: the hydration of reactive skin, as well as atopic pathological skin (rosacea, eczema, etc.).

The dermatologist contributes scientific expertise on the structure and function of both normal and pathological skin, the ingredients to avoid for reasons of tolerance or allergenicity, their empirical understanding of patient needs—gained through direct contact (hygiene and skincare habits, formulation preferences, etc.)—and a comparative perspective on the cosmetics available on the market and their practical tolerability.

How has this approach enriched the final outcome?

Dr Amode’s response: "My involvement from the project’s inception facilitated research into active ingredients without any preconceptions. We conducted an initial brainstorming session without regard for formulation or industrial constraints. This kind of approach encourages innovation. We then adopted a biomimetic and minimalist strategy to respect cutaneous physiology. Avoiding chemical components that cause unpleasant sensations became our guiding principle."

The serum has been specifically formulated to meet the needs of skin with an impaired barrier function.

In your opinion, what are the primary concerns for dry, atopic or rosacea-prone skin?

Response from Dr AMODE: "Discomforts (tingling, pins and needles, burning sensations, itching, redness) significantly impair the quality of life of patients with reactive skin. Atopic skin exhibits a barrier function anomaly that causes dryness and inflammatory flare-ups. Patients prone to rosacea experience visible and unpleasant flushes, the cosmetic management of which is akin to that of reactive skin. Finding a pleasant, well-tolerated product that delivers long-lasting hydration for these patients is a formidable challenge; we had to rise to it."

How would you define a compromised skin barrier?

Response from Dr AMODE: "Impairment of the skin barrier helps to explain the dysfunction of atopic skin. It involves both qualitative and quantitative abnormalities of the lipid film, resulting in increased permeability to environmental irritants and allergens. Consequently, this leads to skin dryness (xerosis) and inflammatory flare-ups."

What are the causes/triggering factors and manifestations?

Dr AMODE’s response: "Sensitive or reactive skin is defined by the occurrence of abnormal sensations (tingling, pins and needles, burning, itching) in response to factors that would not normally provoke them, in the absence of any skin disease. The skin may then appear red. Triggering factors vary and are specific to each individual: water, cold, heat, dry air, UV, as well as hygiene products or cosmetics. Dry skin is a commonly encountered aggravating factor.

Faced with these observations, the choice of a biphasic formulation proved essential to ensure both reparative efficacy and optimal tolerability.
Still relatively uncommon in moisturising treatments, this texture offers significant benefits for compromised skin.

Together, we chose a two-phase formulation. What makes this formulation particularly interesting and effective for compromised skin?

Dr AMODE’s response: "The biphasic format offers the advantage of requiring neither surfactants nor emulsifiers to maintain the formulation’s stability. For particularly reactive or atopic skin, this simplified formulation can reduce the risk of discomfort.

Although these agents are generally well tolerated, some may potentially elicit symptoms or further disrupt the skin barrier. Excluding these components, even the mildest, provides an additional safeguard.

Furthermore, this galenic form mimics the functioning of the hydrolipidic film. One phase comprises humectant agents that hydrate alongside natural moisturising factors (NMFs), while the other contains occlusive agents (lipids) that maintain the barrier function and limit water loss."

In a minimalist approach, each ingredient has been chosen for its precise role in repairing and protecting the skin barrier. The objective: to provide the skin with components it naturally recognises and utilises.

You have been involved in selecting the key ingredients for this formula. Why were FNH, hyaluronic acid and squalane chosen?

Answer from Dr AMODE: "It was our understanding of how the skin functions that guided us in this choice, adopting a biomimetic approach. Reproducing the FNH constituted the first step. The hyaluronic acid was added to the aqueous phase for its hygroscopic properties, that is its ability to retain water. The choice of vegetable squalane to supplement the lipid barrier was the natural choice due to its high formulation stability and excellent tolerability. Its very low comedogenicity is also an asset for combination to oily skin types."

Formulating a reparative treatment for fragile skin demands a delicate balance: delivering visible efficacy while ensuring optimal tolerance. This bi-phase repairing serum achieves this through a purified, physiologically attuned formula.

How can the composition of this serum guarantee both high reparative efficacy and good tolerability on reactive skin?

Response from Dr AMODE: "The absence of surfactants and the minimalist formulation are essential prerequisites to ensure tolerance. Depending on individual needs, this serum can serve as the sole hydrating treatment of the day or be incorporated into an existing routine and supplemented with a moisturising cream. The complementary action of the two phases provides hydration and its long-term maintenance in a pleasant, non-sticky formulation that promotes adherence."

Two formulation choices further enhance tolerability: a physiological pH, respectful of the skin’s natural balance, and the absence of fragrance, ensuring optimal compatibility with the most reactive skin types.

Beyond the theoretical approach, the serum’s efficacy was assessed through a usage trial and a self-evaluation study conducted on a representative panel. The results confirm the hypotheses formulated during the development phase.

• Usage test: Users report a significant improvement in skin comfort from the very first applications. The biphasic texture appeals for its lightness and rapid absorption. No residual greasy feeling is reported.

  91% of the panel report that their skin is soothed from the first use.

• Self-assessment: Across the entire panel, the majority reported a decrease in sensations of discomfort (tingling, tightness) and improved tolerance compared with their usual moisturising treatments. Atopic skin types observed a reduction in skin dryness, while rosacea-prone skin types noted an attenuation of diffuse redness.

  88% of volunteers reported that their skin was more hydrated immediately upon application of the product.

  88% of volunteers indicated that the product strengthens the skin barrier day after day.

Although this serum was formulated for sensitised skin, its minimalist, biomimetic profile affords it a degree of versatility.

Finally, for which type of patients would you recommend using this biphasic reparative serum?

Answer from Dr AMODE: "This biphasic serum is versatile. It can be recommended as a daily moisturiser for reactive or sensitive skin, atopic skin and normal skin. It can also be used alongside acne treatments to provide compensatory hydration, and in post-procedure care (dermatological laser treatments, etc.)."

Such universality stems from its formulation, which honours cutaneous physiology. Whereas certain treatments can over-stimulate the skin, this serum simply restores its natural equilibrium. An approach equally suitable for pathological skin and for normal skin seeking a minimalist yet effective skincare regimen.