Baobab oil is it comedogenic?

Comedogenicity depends on an ingredient’s ability to block pores, forming a film on the skin that prevents sebum from escaping. The trapped sebum accumulates on the skin surface, promoting the development of blemishes cutaneous, manifested as comedones appearing as blackheads or whiteheads. In people with acne, applying so-called comedogenic substances can worsen this condition.

Evaluating an ingredient’s comedogenicity can be done by measuring its comedogenicity index, ranging from 0 to 5, to determine its occlusive potential. On this scale, a score of 0 means there is no occlusion of pores and thus no comedone formation. A score of 5 indicates an increased probability that the pores clog and comedones develop after application of the ingredient. The comedogenicity index relies on three criteria: the ingredient’s ability to penetrate the outer skin layers, its freshness, which depends on storage, and its sensitivity to oxidation. Ingredients are considered comedogenic at scores of 2 or higher.

An ingredient’s comedogenicity does not lead to skin blemishes in all cases. It depends on the individual and their skin type. Reactions to comedogenic products vary between individuals.

Regarding baobab oil, to date, only few specific scientific studies regarding its comedogenicity. However, the limited data tend to indicate that the comedogenicity of baobab oil would be low, or even absent. Baobab oil is thus considered non-comedogenic. Several factors appear to support this finding based on comedogenicity index evaluation criteria.

First, the composition of baobab oil, rich in unsaturated fatty acids (high in linoleic acid), enables the oil, through its emollient properties, to penetrate easily into the skin's outer layers to deliver hydration. Studies conducted on the baobab oil suggest it reduces the risk of comedone formation compared with oils higher in monounsaturated fatty acids, such as coconut oil. Oils high in polyunsaturated fatty acids, like linoleic acid, appear less comedogenic than those high in monounsaturated fatty acids, like oleic acid.

Moreover baobab oil has a good penetration capacity and a good oxidative stability, with an oxidative potential relatively low. It resists oxidation on contact with oxygen. It also remains stable at high temperature, which supports long-term freshness.

There are certain usage precautions to consider for optimising use and efficacy: store away from heat and light; keep out of reach of children.

• KONNERTH N. & al. Comedogenicity testing of cosmetics (1987).

• FULTON J.E. Comedogenicity and irritancy of commonly used ingredients in skin care products. Journal of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists (1989).

• ELIAS PM. & al. Impact of topical oils on the skin barrier: possible implications for neonatal health in developing countries. Acta Paediatrica Journal (2002).

• DiNARDO J. C. & al. A re-evaluation of the comedogenicity concept. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology (2006).

• Y.SHI V & al. Myths, Truths, and Clinical Relevance of Comedogenicity Product Labeling. JAMA Dermatol Journal (2018).

• KOMARNYTSKY S. & al. The Enigma of Bioactivity and Toxicity of Botanical Oils for Skin Care. Frontiers in Pharmacology Journal (2020).

• KRIST S. & al. Vegetable Fats and Oils (2020).

• VERALLO DE BERTOTTO L. & al. Lots Of Comedogenic Ingredients Aren’t Actually Comedogenic, and What You Really Need To Prevent Acne (2020).