Are there any dangers associated with the use of a tinted lip oil?

The tinted lip oils are hybrid formulas, straddling the line between makeup and skincare. Fairly new to the beauty world, they are nevertheless becoming increasingly popular due to their versatility. The compositions and therefore the I.N.C.I. lists vary depending on the brand.

Some may thus contain compounds deemed undesirable for health once ingested, even if they are seemingly harmless when applied topically. This raises concerns for a product used daily, and even more so for pregnant women, given the fact that the product applied to the lips ends up being largely ingested. Studies have estimated that we ingest between 20 to 50 mg of lip care products per day. However, certain tinted lip oils may contain ingredients implicated for their potential health risks through oral exposure:

• The BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole) and the BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene) can be present as preservatives for their antioxidant properties. Indeed, these substances help to prevent oxidation and rancidity. However, these two substances are suspected to be endocrine disruptors. In a nutshell, endocrine disruptors are molecules capable of deregulating the hormonal system. Moreover, the A.R.T.A.C. (French Association for Anti-Cancer Therapeutic Research) classifies them among the potentially carcinogenic substances. Finally, both molecules are also known to be sensitising, thus being a source of allergies.

• Some tinted oils also contain mineral oils derived from petrochemicals. The most common ones are listed under the I.N.C.I. names "
  Hydrogenated Polyisobutene" and "Polybutene". These synthetic oils generally act as lubricants, they have the ability to strengthen the moisture barrier. However, these are the result of chemical reactions harmful to the environment. Moreover, they can accumulate in the liver and cause inflammatory reactions the exact repercussions of which are still unknown. Vaseline (I.N.C.I.: Petrolatum) is also a petroleum derivative present in lipsticks and certain oils. This ingredient is banned in cosmetics in Europe, except "if the complete refining history is known and it can be demonstrated that the substance from which it is produced is not carcinogenic."

• Some tinted oils also contain colourants in the form of nanoparticles such as titanium dioxide (I.N.C.I.: CI 77891). In 2006, the International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classified titanium dioxide (TiO2) in the group of substances "possibly carcinogenic to humans"(group 2B): when inhaled, regardless of the size of the particle (nano or not).

• It is also advisable to avoid a tinted oil containing phenoxyethanol. This synthetic preservative, known by the acronym EGPhE, is increasingly controversial. Indeed, this compound can cause skin allergies, neurological disorders, as well as effects on reproduction.

Our tinted lip oil is composed ofplum oil (INCI name: "Prunus Domestica Seed Oil") which nourishes and imparts a gentle fragrance to the formula. It also contains jojoba oil (INCI name: "Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil") which creates a protective film on the surface of the lips to retain moisture. The formula includes vegetable squalane derived from olives to combat lip dryness and vitamin E (INCI name: "Tocopherol") to protect them from external aggressions. These are also among the ingredients of this lip oil.

Furthermore, this treatment is formulated without mineral oils, without beeswax, and without pigments in nanoparticle form. It is suitable for both normal lips and dry to very dry lips. Moreover, this lip oil comes in several shades, including ruby red, coral orange, plum purple, or even a colourless version.

• EFSA (European Food Safety Authority). Scientific opinion on mineral oil hydrocarbons in food. EFSA Journal (2012).

• GROB K. & al. Mineral oil and synthetic hydrocarbons in cosmetic lip products. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2016).

• FLORES E. M. M. & al. Toxic and potentially toxic elements determination in cosmetics used for make-up: A critical review. Analytica Chimica Acta (2020).