The use of castor oil in cosmetics: in which treatments can it be found?

Also known as castor oil, castor oil is a vegetable oil of a pale yellow to golden colour with a fairly viscous texture. Generally extracted by cold pressing, it is obtained from the seeds of the castor plant, a shrub from the Euphorbiaceae family mainly cultivated in India, Brazil and China. Castor oil is rich in fatty acids, mainly ricinoleic acid, its main compound, which is responsible for many of its benefits. However, while it is often used to formulate cosmetic products, it is good to know that castor oil is not edible for regular food use. In cosmetics, it can be found under its INCI name Ricinus Communis (Castor) Seed Oil.

Cosmetic skincare treatments based on castor oil.

• Cleansing Oils : Castor oil can initially be found in certain cleansing or washing treatments, most often in an oily formulation. Indeed, this vegetable oil integrates very well into cleansing products and can be used to gently remove lipophilic impurities and makeup residues accumulated on the skin's surface, without irritating it and while preserving its hydrolipidic film.

• Moisturising Care : Rich in fatty acids, the castor oil is a source of natural hydration for the skin. Its film-forming properties indeed allow it to strengthen the hydrolipidic film, thus helping the skin to fight against dehydration. Moreover, castor oil can consolidate the skin barrier by penetrating into the horny layer and playing the role of intercellular cement there. These various properties of the castor oil are interesting for dry or dehydrated skin and allow it to join the INCI list of several moisturising care products, including products formulated for the lips.

• Targeted care for skin ageing : In cosmetics, castor oil is also widely used to formulate serums targeting skin sagging. Rich in antioxidants, it can prevent photoaging. Indeed, oxidative stress influences skin ageing, the free radicals causing extensive damage to the DNA as well as to the supportive protein fibres of the dermis. Moreover, some studies suggest that castor oil has a tightening effect.

• Soothing Products : Castor oil is also found in certain serums or soothing balms aimed at restoring comfort to the skin. Several studies have indeed shown that castor oil can act at several levels of inflammation to reduce it, particularly by inhibiting the activities of phospholipase A2 enzymes, releasing arachidonic acid, a vasodilator. This vegetable oil can thus help to alleviate irritations, whether they are due to skin dryness or mild inflammation.

Hair and body cosmetic products containing castor oil.

• Shampoos : Castor oil is frequently found in shampoos. In addition to soothing the scalp and helping to maintain its hydrolipidic film, it is believed to have densifying properties and may stimulate hair growth. This effect is attributed to its richness in ricinoleic acid, a fatty acid that inhibits prostaglandin D2, an enzyme that interrupts hair growth. This potential action of the castor oil on the hair makes it a common ingredient in many anti-hair loss shampoos.

• Conditioners and Masks : Undeniably beneficial for hair, castor oil can also be found in conditioners or hair masks. These treatments, applied only to the lengths of the hair, aim to strengthen and hydrate the fibres. Thanks to its film-forming properties, castor oil coats the hair to protect it. Moreover, the palmitic acid it contains allows it to insert itself between the scales of the cuticle and consolidate the intercellular cement. Thus, castor oil can improve the texture of the hair, making it softer and shinier.

• Care for eyelashes and eyebrows : The densifying and protective virtues of the castor oil for hair are also beneficial for taking care of eyelashes and eyebrows. Indeed, when they are not properly hydrated, they are more prone to dryness and breakage. To prevent these damages and enhance their beauty, many eyelash and eyebrow care products incorporate castor oil into their composition.

At Typology, you can find castor oil in several of our products:

• The bi-phase eye makeup remover : Formulated with pea peptides and castor oil, which help to strengthen and fortify the eyelashes, this makeup remover also contains chamomile hydrosol, praised for its soothing properties. Capable of effectively removing makeup, even water-resistant (waterproof) ones, this bi-phase makeup remover respects the balance of the eye contour.

• The wrinkle and fine line serum : A friend to mature skin, castor oil is also present in our wrinkle and fine line serum. Containing 0.3% retinol as well, this treatment prevents skin sagging while fading existing wrinkles and fine lines. Formulated with 99% natural origin ingredients, this serum is preferably used in the evening.

• The lip repair mask : This treatment, designed for chapped or weakened lips, is enriched with castor oil, as well as ceramides and hyaluronic acid. Containing 98% naturally derived ingredients, it forms a protective film on the surface of the lips and strengthens the skin barrier. The lip repair mask can be used in two ways: you can apply it about fifteen minutes before removing the excess with a cotton pad, or leave it on in a thick layer all night.

• The eyelash and eyebrow serum : Concentrated with castor oil, pea peptides, as well as biotinyl-GHK and panthenol, this non-tinted treatment nourishes and strengthens the eyelashes and eyebrows. It is applied in the evening, on a cleansed, clean and dry face.

• The mascara serum : Formulated without silicone and mineral oil, this mascara serum strengthens and lengthens the lashes for a natural result, without a material effect. Adjustable, it can be applied in several layers for a more or less visible result.

• The eyebrow strengthening gel : Packed with fortifying and densifying active ingredients, this 2-in-1 treatment strengthens eyebrows while structuring them and adding volume. This eyebrow gel comes in 3 neutral undertones to suit all eyebrow shades. In addition to castor oil, it contains pea peptides and plant keratin.

• TESSEMA S. & al. Physicochemical Characterization and Evaluation of Castor Oil (R. communis) for Hair Biocosmetics. American Journal of Applied Chemistry (2019).

• JOGPAL B. & al. Medicinal Properties of Ricinus Communis: A Review. International Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences and Research (2021).