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How to choose the most suitable hair serum?

Sensitive scalp, dry, coloured or compromised hair… each condition requires a targeted solution. Hair serums are formulated to address a specific concern, yet their variety can be bewildering. Some act directly on the scalp, while others focus on the hair lengths and tips. How can you determine which one will truly meet your needs? Discover our guidance to make the right choice.

Published on September 15, 2025, by Pauline, Chemical Engineer — 7 min of reading
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Identifying your needs to select the appropriate hair serum.

Choosing a hair serum does not start with the texture or the brand, but with an analysis of one’s own needs. A serum is a concentrated treatment, formulated to act in a targeted manner and address a specific concern that must first be defined. This step is akin to a personal diagnosis, similar to skin diagnostics that help to establish a facial skincare routine, which allows one to distinguish the needs of the scalp from those of the lengths.

For the scalp, the objective is to act directly on the skin that houses the hair follicles and is fundamental to hair equilibrium. Depending on its type, a hair serum can stimulate growth or curb hair loss by supporting the growth phase (anagen), soothe local inflammation or rebalance the production of sebum and the microbiome, with the aim of reducing dandruff. As for the lengths and ends, the approach is different, since the hair fibre is an inert structure unable to regenerate itself. Here, serums aim to repair cuticle damage, fill lipid gaps, minimise mechanical breakage and protect against external aggressors such as heat, friction or UV rays.

To help clarify your requirements, here is a table of practical questions that directly guide you to the appropriate serum type:

Question to considerRecommended type of hair serum
Am I losing more hair than usual? / Does it feel as though my hair is no longer growing?Serum to support hair growth and reduce hair loss, enriched with caffeine or biomimetic peptides
Do I have persistent dandruff or itching?Anti-dandruff serum combining keratolytic agents with antifungal actives (piroctone olamine, ciclopirox olamine...)
Does my scalp become oily by the day following shampooing?Mattifying hair serum, for example formulated with zinc or sarcosine
Is my scalp sensitive or susceptible to irritation?Soothing hair serum containing anti-inflammatory active ingredients (aloe vera, colloidal oatmeal, panthenol...)
Are my hair ends splitting, or are my strands prone to breakage?Repairing hair serum rich in ceramides, plant-derived restructuring oils and keratin
Does my hair lack shine and appear dull?Hair shine serum, often enriched with lightweight oils and active compounds capable of forming a film around the hair fibres to reflect light
Am I experiencing hair frizziness that is challenging to control during styling?Smoothing hair serum containing film-forming and moisture-protective agents
Do I regularly use heat-styling appliances (hair dryer, straightening iron)?Heat-protective hair serum, formulated with heat-resistant film-forming polymers
Questions to identify the type of hair serum best suited to your needs.

Answering these straightforward questions is the first step in identifying the category of hair serum most suited to your needs.

Determining one’s hair type to select the most appropriate hair serum.

Once you have identified your need, it is important to take into account your hair type, which strongly influences the efficacy and comfort of a hair serum. Indeed, just as certain cosmetics are better tolerated by oily skin than by dry skin and vice versa, the same hair serum formulation may weigh down certain hair types or, conversely, be insufficient for others.

  • Fine, flat hair : Often in search of volume, this hair type is quickly weighed down by rich formulations. The hair serums best suited to fine, flat hair are lightweight and water-based, designed to penetrate rapidly without leaving a greasy residue.

  • Thick hair : The cuticle of this hair type is generally quite porous, which results in rapid moisture loss. To care for it, it is best to favour richer serums, perhaps oil-based. Unlike fine hair, a film-forming treatment does not weigh thick hair down but improves its suppleness and manageability.

  • Curly, frizzy or kinky hair : Contrary to some common beliefs, this hair type is fragile. This vulnerability stems from torsion points where the hair fibres bend, exposing them to breakage. Hair serums combining nourishment and protection, often in the form of plant oils or butters, help maintain curl definition while limiting the dehydration.

  • Damaged or coloured-treated hair : Dyeing, bleaching and straightening alter keratin and weaken the cuticle, making the fibre more porous and vulnerable to oxidation. Hair serums specifically formulated for this hair type typically contain antioxidants (vitamin E, polyphenols, etc.) that help limit pigment alteration and contribute to prolonging colour radiance.

An effective, tailored hair serum addresses both a recognised need and the structural characteristics of the hair fibre.

Discover Typology’s hair serum.

At Typology, we offer a restorative hair serum enriched with hyaluronic acid and plant-based keratin. Composed of 99% naturally sourced ingredients, this non-greasy formula hydrates and strengthens the hair fibre to reduce breakage and impart shine and softness to the hair. What’s the extra benefit of this serum? It contains mother-of-pearl particles that reflect light to provide a satiny sheen to the hair and intensify its radiance.

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