Cadmium in cosmetics: should we be concerned?

Cadmium, in brief.

Cadmium is a heavy metal that occurs naturally in the environment, but whose concentrations have increased markedly as a result of human activities. It is introduced in particular into agricultural soils via phosphate fertilisers derived from rocks that are naturally rich in cadmium. Once present in soils, it can be taken up by plants and then enter the food chain. This is now the main route of exposure for the general population.

According to ANSES, diet accounts for up to 98% of cadmium exposure in non-smokers.

Everyday foods such as cereals, potatoes or certain root vegetables contribute to this, which makes exposure difficult to avoid completely. Biomonitoring data show that this exposure is far from negligible. In France, nearly half of adults have urinary cadmium concentrations above the critical threshold, and average body burden has almost doubled in the space of about ten years. Children are also affected, with around a quarter of them exceeding the tolerable daily intake by ingestion. Smoking is a major aggravating factor, as cigarette smoke contains cadmium in the form of inhaled particles, significantly increasing the body burden.

Cadmium is of particular concern because of its capacity to accumulate in the body.

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10–30 years

for the cadmium concentration in the body to decrease by half.

This bioaccumulation leads to long-term effects, particularly on the kidneys, bones and cardiovascular system. Several studies have also established associations with an increased risk of certain cancers (pancreatic, prostate, breast), as well as with fertility and neurodevelopmental disorders. Widespread exposure to cadmium is therefore a source of growing public health concern, including in the field of cosmetics.

Are there any risks of cadmium contamination in cosmetics?

Cadmium is prohibited as an ingredient in cosmetic products.

In other words, it is not deliberately added to formulations. However, as with other heavy metals, it may be found in trace amounts, as an impurity originating from certain raw materials, particularly mineral pigments, or from the manufacturing process. The issue is therefore not so much one of intentional addition, but rather of unintentional contamination, generally at very low concentrations and regulated by legislation.

Several studies have indeed demonstrated the presence of cadmium in cosmetics, but with highly variable levels depending on the products, brands and countries. For example, a study carried out in Bangladesh on moisturising creams showed average cadmium concentrations of 3.23 ppm, with some exceeding the limits set by the WHO or the European Union (3 ppm), although overall remaining within thresholds considered acceptable. The authors emphasise that, even if the immediate risk appears low, repeated exposure could lead to a progressive accumulation of these metals in the body.

Conversely, other studies report much lower concentrations. A study carried out on 13 cosmetic products (lipsticks, foundations, eyeliners) on the Saudi market detected cadmium in all samples, but at very low levels, around 0.02 ppm on average, well below the thresholds set by the WHO. An analysis comparing different European make-up products also showed that cadmium concentrations were well below regulatory limits.

Overall, scientific data indicate that cadmium contamination of cosmetics is possible, especially in make-up products, but that it remains low and contributes only marginally to total daily exposure, which is largely dominated by dietary intake.

> 98%

of daily exposure to cadmium comes from food.

< 2%

of daily cadmium exposure comes from cosmetics.

Is cadmium dangerous when used topically?

Several studies have sought to determine whether topical exposure to cadmium could have adverse effects, in a similar way to ingestion. To date, the data remain limited, but some studies provide interesting insights. One study conducted in 252 women with dermatoses (rosacea, eczema and seborrheic dermatitis), compared with 102 women without any such conditions, analyzed both the cosmetic products used (lipsticks, powders, eyeliners, eyeshadows) and various biomarkers, particularly serum, the blood fraction from which cells and clotting proteins have been removed.

The results show that cadmium is detected in all the products tested, with concentrations ranging from 0.40 to 0.76 ppm in powders, 1.63 to 2.30 ppm in lipsticks, 1.05 to 3.60 ppm in eyeliners and 1.05 to 4.53 ppm in eyeshadows, with some values exceeding the 3 ppm threshold mentioned by the WHO. From a biological perspective, women with dermatoses present significantly higher cadmium concentrations than the control subjects, as well as hair concentrations approximately two to three times higher.

2.28 to 3.46 µg/L

Cadmium levels in the serum of participants with dermatosis aged between 16 and 35 years.

1.03 to 1.50 µg/L

Cadmium levels in the serum of female participants without dermatosis, aged 16 to 35 years.

2.83 to 4.15 µg/L

Cadmium levels in the serum of participants with dermatosis aged between 36 and 50 years.

1.18 to 1.80 µg/L

Cadmium levels in the serum of participants without dermatosis between 36 and 50 years of age.

These results suggest that cadmium may be involved in certain skin imbalances.

From a mechanistic point of view, cadmium can interact with skin proteins via thiol (-SH) groups, and induce oxidative stress that may damage cells. However, its penetration through the skin remains limited: it is estimated that around 0.5% of the cadmium applied is actually absorbed, mainly in cases of prolonged exposure or at high concentrations, which suggests that the contribution of cosmetics to overall exposure remains low.

However, it is important to remain cautious and to emphasise that this study does not allow a direct causal link to be established between the use of cosmetics containing cadmium and the occurrence of dermatoses. In the current state of scientific knowledge, topical application appears to be a secondary route of exposure, whose impact remains limited compared with other environmental sources, particularly diet.