Antistatic Agent: What is its role in cosmetics?

An antistatic agent is an ingredient incorporated into a formulation with the aim of limiting static electricity. This is a physical phenomenon resulting from an imbalance of electrical charges present within or on the surface of a material. In a neutral state, positive and negative charges balance each other out. However, due to friction or contact, electrons can be transferred from one object to another, thereby causing charge imbalances.

In the field of cosmetics, the issue of static electricity is primarily known in relation to hair. Indeed, when hair is brushed or subjected to friction, against a hat or jumper for example, it can lose or gain electrons. The hair then becomes electrically charged. However, let's remember that like charges repel each other while opposite charges attract. This phenomenon creates an unruly effect, characterised by strands of hair standing on end. Fine hair is particularly prone to static electricity because the surface of their cuticle is larger. Furthermore, cold weather intensifies this phenomenon as it makes the air less conductive. Hair then tends to become more charged with electricity.

The primary function of antistatic agents used in cosmetics is to protect the hair from static electricity by neutralising the electrical charges accumulated on their surface.

The mode of action of antistatic agents is based on their ability to balance the distribution of electrical charges on the surface of the hair. Products formulated with these agents, such as conditioners, serums or even styling sprays, typically contain cationic substances that interact with the negative charges naturally present on hair fibres. This interaction creates a neutralisation of charges, thus reducing static electricity and taming the hair.

In addition to reducing static electricity, antistatic agents enhance the action of texturising agents and contribute to improving the sensory experience of cosmetics. Indeed, these ingredients facilitate the formation of a light film on the surface of the hair that coats the hair fibres. This not only helps to minimise frizz, but also aids in softening the hair and making it easier to style.

Although less common, antistatic agents are sometimes found in skincare products, particularly in those intended for body application. Their presence in these formulations helps to mitigate the effects of electrostatic friction from clothing on the skin, thereby enhancing the comfort of the skincare routine. The main antistatic agents used in cosmetics are listed in the table below.

• DRAELOS Z. K. Cosmetics: An overview. Current Problems in Dermatology (1995).

• DRAELOS Z. The Biology of Hair Care. Dermatologic Clinics (2000).

• BAKI G. Introduction to Cosmetic Formulation and Technology. Wiley (2023).