60, 70, 80 years old: which face cream should you choose?

Around 60–70 years of age, the skin undergoes profound structural changes that directly affect its water balance. The number of fibroblasts decreases, leading to reduced synthesis of collagen and elastin, while sebum production slows due to reduced activity of the sebaceous glands. At the same time, the skin’s natural stores of hyaluronic acid progressively diminish, which limits the skin’s ability to retain water. The synthesis of epidermal lipids also declines, weakening the skin barrier.

Result: the skin becomes drier, less supple, thinner and more vulnerable to external aggressions.

This alteration of the barrier function promotes dehydration and explains why feelings of discomfort and tightness become more frequent with age. These phenomena are amplified by changes in skin architecture. The dermo–epidermal junction, which ensures cohesion between the dermis and the epidermis and regulates the exchange of water and nutrients, progressively deteriorates.

This reduction in surface area, combined with an overall thinning of the skin, decreases exchanges between the different skin layers and contributes to increased dryness. In addition, dermal microcirculation slows down, limiting the supply of oxygen and nutrients, which leads to a duller complexion.

The hydration is a central issue after the age of 60.

It is not only a question of bringing water to the skin, but also of strengthening its capacity to retain it, by supporting the skin barrier. At the same time, sun protection remains indispensable. Contrary to popular belief, the risk of skin cancers does not decrease with age, quite the opposite. Thinner, more fragile skin that has accumulated years of UV exposure is particularly vulnerable. The daily use of sun protection therefore remains essential to preserve the integrity of the skin and, additionally, to limit the signs of photoageing.

Note : It is never too late to start using sun protection. Several studies have demonstrated the benefits of adding a sunscreen to one’s daily routine after 40 years of age. In addition to reducing the risk of melanoma and carcinoma, this has also been shown to lessen visible signs of ageing.

From 60, 70 or 80 years of age, the skin requires care that is both highly moisturising and highly nourishing.

As the skin is drier and its barrier function weakened, it is advisable to opt for rich creams containing a high proportion of film-forming agents such as butters or waxes, which can limit water loss and strengthen the barrier function. This will help restore skin comfort and reduce feelings of tightness. In the morning, it is best to choose a day cream that includes a high level of sun protection (SPF 50), in order to simplify the routine while ensuring effective protection against UV radiation.

For the evening, we also recommend a cream with a rich, cocooning texture. If you wish, this is also an opportunity to use a facial cream containing active ingredients targeting the signs of ageing, such as retinol, one of the best-documented. This vitamin A derivative works by stimulating cell renewal and promoting the synthesis of components of the extracellular matrix, such as collagen. A double-blind clinical study conducted with 36 participants with an average age of 87 years evaluated the effectiveness of a lotion containing 0.4% retinol , applied up to three times a week for 24 weeks. The results showed a significant reduction in wrinkles compared with the control group.

Beyond the visible effect on wrinkles, this study also highlighted underlying biological changes. An increase in the expression of glycosaminoglycans, molecules capable of retaining large amounts of water, as well as a rise in the production of procollagen I, was observed in the treated areas.

These results suggest that retinol helps to improve both skin hydration and skin structure.

Nevertheless, its use should remain gradual, as it is a very powerful active agent and is sometimes associated with irritation. It is recommended to start with one application every three days for two weeks and then, in the absence of any signs of irritation, to gradually increase the frequency to every other day, up to daily application if the skin tolerates it.

• WEST M. D. & al. The cellular and molecular biology of skin aging. JAMA Dermatology (1994).

• SCHUMACHER W. E. & al. Improvement of naturally aged skin with vitamin A (retinol). JAMA Dermatology (2007).

• TOKUDA Y. & al. Physical signs of dehydration in the elderly. Internal Medicine (2012).

• SOUTHALL M. & al. Daily use of a facial broad spectrum sunscreen over one-year significantly improves clinical evaluation of photoaging. Dermatologic Surgery (2016).

• BLUME-PEYTAVI U. & al. Maintaining skin integrity in the aged: A systematic review. British Journal of Dermatology (2023).