This refers to the I.N.C.I. name used to denote the papyrus native cells. These cells help to restore skin hydration through two complementary mechanisms: they replenish the skin's water reservoir and strengthen skin cohesion to prevent dehydration.
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What is "Cyperus Papyrus Leaf Cell Extract" and what is its utility?
Summary
- Plant native cells, how are they obtained?
- The papyrus, in brief
- Papyrus native cells to restore the skin's hydrolipidic balance
Published February 5, 2024,
by
Maylis, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
Plant native cells, how are they obtained?
Plant native cells are whole cells that are locally harvested from the plant. They are derived from a biotechnological process that respects the environment and biodiversity. This process takes place in several stages:
Selection of the plant and sampling: Collection of a piece of the plant (leaves);
Culture in vitro of the harvested plant piece: Successive transplantations onto a fresh nutritive medium composed of water, minerals, sugar, and vitamins;
Elicitation: Stimulation of cell culture through UV and visible light to produce metabolites (active molecules);
Rinsing : Removal of all traces of the nutrient medium ;
Cell Filtration ;
Sonication of cells and dispersion of the extract in sunflower oil.
This extraction method allows for the preservation of all active molecules present in the plant cells, which gives this compound a complementary action against other plant extracts (vegetable oils, essential oils and hydrosols).
The papyrus, in brief.
Papyrus is a semi-aquatic, herbaceous, and monocotyledonous plant native to Africa. It thrives in warm and wet areas and can grow to heights of 1.5 to 3 metres, or even more depending on its exposure to the sun. Today, it is becoming endangered in the Nile Delta.
Produced from 2500 BC, papyrus was the writing medium of the civilisation of ancient Egypt. A royal symbol of Lower Egypt and of life emerging from the primordial waters, as evidenced by various architectural and decorative elements, this plant was also the Hathoric symbol of power (Hathor being the mother of all the gods in the Egyptian pantheon).
Papyrus native cells to restore the skin's hydrolipidic balance.
When applied topically, native papyrus cells combat skin dehydration at various levels:
They limit the insensible water loss by strengthening the corneocyte cohesion.
As a reminder, water follows a path from the inside to the surface of the skin and eventually evaporates: this is referred to as insensible water loss. This phenomenon depends on external factors such as temperature, humidity etc... as well as internal factors: the state of the stratum corneum, the water gradient in the different epidermal strata and the integrity of the inter-corneocyte lipid network. Native papyrus cells promote the creation of lipids (free fatty acids, cholesterol, ceramides, etc.) found in the stratum corneum of the epidermis, the very ones that help maintain cohesion between the corneocytes, the cells of the stratum corneum that act as a skin barrier. Thus, water has more difficulty evaporating and remains trapped in the epidermis for longer.
They stimulate cellular renewal.
The epidermis, the outermost layer of the skin, is predominantly composed of cells known as keratinocytes, which continually renew themselves in a cycle of approximately 28 days. Keratinocytes divide at the basal layer of the epidermis, which is primarily made up of undifferentiated cells, and migrate to the surface; they change shape, lose their nucleus, and become filled with keratin filaments. When they reach the stratum corneum, they transform into corneocytes, dead cells that form a solid, waterproof and protective membrane (thanks to keratin). Keratin contains various substances, including intracellular NMF (Natural Moisturising Factor); this is a blend of hygroscopic substances that allow corneocytes to retain water: free amino acids (40%), pyrrolidone carboxylic acid (12%), lactates (12%), urea, sugars and mineral salts. Concurrently, during their keratinisation process, keratinocytes release a fraction of epidermal lipids which, combined with the secretion from the sebaceous glands and water from sweat secretions, form the hydrolipidic film, an emulsion located in the stratum corneum. By promoting cell renewal, native papyrus cells contribute not only to the creation of keratin, which acts as a skin barrier, but also to the production of NMF and the creation of the hydrolipidic film, both of which retain water in the epidermis.
Discover the native papyrus cells in our hydrating botanical blend. This night serum regenerates the skin and can be used as a substitute for your regular night cream.
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