The benefits of ginseng extract in topical treatments.

Ginseng can be found in skincare products aimed at delaying the appearance of ageing signs due to its antioxidant and firming powers. On one hand, the botanical extract obtained from its roots is rich in ginsenosides. These active molecules protect the epidermis from environmental stress factors (UV rays, pollution, tobacco). Indeed, ginsenosides Rb1 inhibit the expression of matrix metalloproteinases-1 (MMP-1) and proteolytic enzymes that degrade the collagen of the extracellular matrix. It thus inhibits the degradation of collagen, a protein essential for skin firmness, elasticity and resistance.

Furthermore, the vitamin C and E it contains are antioxidants capable of neutralising the free radicals caused by exposure to UV rays, stress, pollution, tobacco... Exposure to these factors triggers an overproduction of free radicals that degrade collagen and accelerate skin ageing. Applying a skincare product enriched with ginseng to the skin can thus delay the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Red ginseng possesses moisturising properties due to the polysaccharides it contains. These complex carbohydrates help to maintain skin hydration and restore the skin's protective barrier by forming a film on the surface. Clinical studies have shown that the ginseng found in certain cosmetic products can increase the skin's moisture content and reduce transepidermal water loss. Thus, your skin is more hydrated and less susceptible to external aggressions.

A 2018 study demonstrated that the paracoumaric acid found in red ginseng leaves was able to significantly reduce melanin content by inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase.

Another study from 2017, on the other hand, highlighted that syringaresinol found in ginseng had anti-melanogenic effects on a human melanoma cell line. These effects are due to the activation of the FoxO3a transcription factor which inhibits melanogenesis.

Thus, ginseng has an inhibitory effect on the melanogenesis assuming that the results of these studies conducted on ginseng leaves are similar to those that could have been obtained on a ginseng root.

Ginsenosides, the primary active ingredient in red ginseng, possess anti-inflammatory properties. Indeed, ginsenosides Rb1, Rg1, Rg3, and Rh2 are known to reduce the expression of pro-inflammatory cytokines (TNF-α, IL-1β, and IL-6) and certain enzymes (iNOS and COX-2). The activity of these enzymes particularly increases more than 20 times during an inflammatory response. As a result, these anti-inflammatory properties make ginseng an interesting active ingredient for soothing and calming the skin during inflammation (acne, chronic skin diseases, etc.).

Acne is a non-contagious skin condition characterised by the emergence of spots and blackheads at the level of the pilosebaceous follicles. Three factors are involved: excessive production of sebum (hyperseborrhoea) or a sebum that is too thick (dyseborrhoea), the obstruction of pores by the accumulation of dead cells (hyperkeratosis), and the proliferation of the bacterium Propionibacterium acnes within the follicle.

A study conducted in 2018 demonstrated that red ginseng has an effective antibacterial action against Propionibacterium acnes. Its effect is equivalent, and sometimes even superior to some treatments commonly used against acne (azelaic acid and benzoyl peroxide), making ginseng an interesting ingredient for mitigating acne.

Our antioxidant cream relies on the synergy of two active ingredients to restore radiance to dull complexions, hydrate the epidermis, and prevent signs of ageing. On one hand, the antioxidant properties of theginseng extract (INCI: Panax Ginseng Root Extract) neutralise free radicals and protect the skin from external aggressions. On the other hand, thekale leaf extract (INCI: Brassica Oleracea Acephala Leaf Extract) is utilised for its keratolytic properties. It smooths the skin's texture and refines the horny layer, rendering the complexion luminous.

• KIM J. & al. Effects of Korean ginseng berry on skin antipigmentation and antiaging via FoxO3a activation. Journal of Ginseng Research (2017).

• YANG D. C. & al. Applications of leavesmediated gold nanoparticles in cosmetics relation to antioxidant, moisture retention, and whitening effect on B16BL6 cells. Journal of Ginseng Research (2018).

• HOU J. H. & al. Anti‐acne properties of hydrophobic fraction of red ginseng (Panax ginseng C.A. Meyer) and its active components. Phytotherapy Research (2018).

• IM D. S. Pro-resolving effect of ginsenosides as an anti-inflammatory mechanism of Panax ginseng. Biomolecules (2020).

• YI F. & al. Bibliometric analysis of the effects of ginseng on skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology (2021).