Untangling hair is a daily task, but knowing when and how to do it is essential to avoid damage. Dry or wet: which option minimises breakage and preserves hair integrity? Let’s examine this issue.
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Should detangling occur on dry or wet hair?
Summary
- What are the benefits and drawbacks of detangling wet hair?
- Detangling dry hair: advantages and disadvantages
- Detangling on dry or damp hair: which to choose?
- Sources
Published June 11, 2025,
updated on June 11, 2025,
by
Pauline, Chemical Engineer
—
5 min read
What are the benefits and drawbacks of detangling wet hair?
Detangling hair after a shower is common and practical. Water eases brush glide, knots come free, and hair feels more pliable. After applying conditioner, detangling seems straightforward. In reality, brushing wet hair is less beneficial than it appears because moisture makes the hair fibre more fragile. When hair is wet, it absorbs water, causing the fibre to swell. This lifts cuticle scales, exposing inner layers. Hydrogen bonds stabilising the keratin chains in the cortex are disrupted, weakening the structure. Vigorous brushing or rough contact on wet hair can cause breakage.
Despite this fragility, wet detangling can be relevant for people with textured or coily hair. This hair type, more fragile due to its tight spiral structure, detangles more easily when wet. Water reduces friction between fibres and eases comb passage. Studies show coily hair has higher tensile strength when wet than dry. Combing dry coily hair is challenging as it resists the comb or brush, causing breakage.
| Benefits | Limitations |
|---|---|
| Hair is more pliable, facilitating combing or brushing. | The fibre is more fragile because cuticle scales lift when exposed to water. |
| Detangling is easier, especially if a conditioner has been used beforehand. | Overall mechanical strength is reduced, making hair more susceptible to breakage. |
Advantages and disadvantages of detangling wet hair.
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Detangling dry hair: advantages and disadvantages.
Dry hair preserves the integrity of its keratinised structure. Unlike wet hair, its cuticle scales remain closed and hydrogen bonds between keratin chains stay intact. This stability provides a greater tensile strength in dry hair : it takes more force to break a dry hair than a wet one. In practice, under moderate tension, such as brushing, a hair fibre offers greater resistance when dry, which limits breakage if detangling is gentle. Excessive force can cause breakage, but damage remains lower than with a fibre weakened by water.
On straight or slightly wavy hair, dry detangling causes little difficulty. A smoother hair surface reduces knots and friction. The situation differs with very curly or coily hair, where knots tighten. Detangling these requires significant force, which can weaken or break the hair.
| Benefits | Limitations |
|---|---|
| The hair fibre exhibits higher mechanical resistance. | Detangling can increase breakage in tight knots when no detangling product is used. |
| Hair’s natural structure is more easily maintained. | Detangling is more difficult and painful on thick or textured hair. |
| / | Friction can generate static electricity or intensify frizz. |
Advantages and disadvantages of detangling dry hair.
Detangling on dry or damp hair: which to choose?
The choice between detangling dry or damp hair is not universal: it depends on hair type.
Dry detangling is recommended for straight or slightly wavy hair. It reduces breakage because the hair fibre is mechanically stronger in this state. Gentle brushing with a soft brush or wide-tooth comb can remove knots while preserving hair health. In contrast, detangling on damp hair is advised for very curly or coily hair due to its inherent fragility, which makes it more vulnerable to repeated tension.
Advice : Whether you detangle your hair when dry or wet, always start at the ends and work towards the roots to avoid worsening knots. Also avoid rubbing your hair with a towel before brushing them while wet. If you have just shampooed, always apply a conditioner. This treatment eases detangling. It also protects and moisturises the lengths.
Sources
CORNWELL P. Defying Damage: Understanding Breakage in Afro-textured Hair. Cosmetics & Toiletries (2020).
WORTMANN G. & al. Comparing hair tensile testing in the wet and the dry state: Possibilities and limitations for detecting changes of hair properties due to chemical and physical treatments. International Journal of Cosmetic Science (2022).
MARTINS M. & al. Insights on the hair keratin structure under different drying conditions. Journal of Natural Fibers (2023).
SON S. K. & al. Hair detangling evaluation method using section detangling rate. Cosmetics (2025).
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